RRC Archives

Who bolted Valor Over Discretion?

Scott Hammon did with my blessing.

Thrax, How do you feel about that?

Tell me more, how is the line laid out, off the boulder and around left, then up to the Holly Go Lightly belay station?

I needed a little bridge to get ON the thing....not made for midgets.

why was it bolted

I heard the reason is because the route sees very little traffic and as a trad route, it was very dangerous.

I unerstand that would be a reason to give it an R and name it Valor Over Discretion. it is not like it is never done.

Research indicates that only three people other than Johnny and Hamsco have climbed the route, at least of the people who spray on this bbs. Is this now a total sport climb or is it a mixed route? OK, here are some possible reasons I could see for retro-bolting this route: 1. Roadside is a very popular and heavily used area. The more routes that get traffic the better as it will spread out the usage. 2. Roadside is private land with unsecured access. Making this route safer decreases the risk of a serious accident. A serious accident could possibly lead to the owners closing the area.

scott wanted people to get to his climb on the upper section. DO NOT do this climb if you want a fun 8 (-?)! it is dirty and not fun. not a beginner route. can swing aroud arete in a fall. use sling on last bolt on the belayers side to reduce the rope drag. this climb bites.