Questionable Anchor

Post by **gulliver** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 1:56 am

I wish I could give the name of this route, but I don't know it. I think the area is 'the inbetween wall'. The anchor at the top of this sport route has a single Fixe wiregate sport anchor.It's backed up by a second bolt with a chain but the wiregate is the only link for a rope. Stepping up to waist height for cleaning it became apparent just how easy you could have a backclip sittuation. You'd have to be there maybe. The biner is pretty static and so it merely needs the rope to cross it again with some pressure. I think it neeeds another one, or a differant set-up altogether. I'm not well versed in placing anchors so maybe someone could explain this one to me. Oh yeah , the climb is 8 feet right of a 5.8? handcrack.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 3:26 am

Geeze,you would think at least a couple sporties out of a thousand would know where he was or what he was climbing or even what he was talking about.

Post by **Legion** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 3:53 am

gulliver
You have decsribed a very common anchor found at sport climbing crags. It eliminates the need to go through the business of threading the rope through the anchor bolts to get your rope off a route. You are right about the backclipping. They are not intended to be used in situations where there will be someone climbing above the anchor. So don't.

Post by **Jeff** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 11:05 am

Hah!
Like that signature ynot!

Post by **gulliver** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 12:17 pm

So 'YNOT' place them in pairs like the manufacturer recomends. Ask Fixe if I know what I'm talking about.

Post by **Legion** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 1:50 pm

Does it look like this? (With the addition of a wiregate attached where the ring is)
http://www.fixeusa.com/anchors_traditional.html

Post by **deleted username** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 4:51 pm

The route sounds like it could be "Edge Of Your Seat" (5.10a). I don't remember the anchor being weird.

Post by **Andrew** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 6:27 pm

I've climbed that route a few times. Doesn't seem odd to me either. I seem to remember clipping into my own draws at the anchor so my buddy could top rope it, instead of just the wire gate, but when it was time to clean i just clipped into the wire gate. I think it would be hard for the rope to unclip itself when you are getting lowered down. Just my 2 cents from the last time i climbed it.

Post by **Legion** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 6:33 pm

Hey, is that route kinda slabby and follows a big blunt corner?

Post by **gulliver** » Mon Oct 28, 2002 8:21 pm

I checked it out at Fixe Climbing and the anchor IS installed properly. I wasn't trying to rag on anyones route, I just popped up at the anchor to see how easy it would be to top out there,that's when I looked down at my rope draggin across it. I'll know better the next time. Thanks Legion,for your input.