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If you can crimp but open handed force hurts, it is probably a tendon that flexes your wrist and not your fingers and attaches to the carpal bones but doesn't attach to the metacarpals or fingers. I'd avoid anything that causes pain. Tendons can take awhile to heal and if you keep hurting it it will get worse and take even longer. If you absolutely have to climb don't do any open handed moves with your left. When you climb a route make your top priority to protect your injury instead of sending the route. Climb statically and stay focused on not hurting yourself.

That sounds a lot like an old tendon injury of mine. I hate to say it, but it's going to take a few months to heal. The more you rest it the faster and better it will heal. The more you climb, the longer it will take to heal and the more likely it is to become a recurring injury.

ice...not just after you climb...but after you use it to do anything...and if you insist on climbing "warm it up Chris" (sorry )

I'm having the same problems...and I've gotten advice from Dr. Ireland...but she didn't say...my emotional side told me this...that if I keep climbing...just not hard...that it'll help it heal by keeping it flexible...

and here's a neat trick...so that your fingers can bend once you tape them...tape them slightly bent

My first advice, don't take advice from a bunch of strangers and hacks. Now on with some more advice. Using ice on a finger is difficult (that's more of a caveat than advice). Stick with me, the non-advise gets better. As mentioned above, rest is the most important thing for healing. Re-injury can lead to scar which leads to life long pain. Two weeks off or light climbing on jugs as long as it isn't painful is a good way to keep active. Finally...BUDDY TAPE...It is a way to rest your injury while climbing. Tear two thin strips of tape and comfortably tape your ring and middle fingers together. One strip around the finger bone closest to the hand, and one strip around the middle phalanges. This will restrict motion and give your injured finger a little extra help. It will also keep you from sticking it into any mono-pockets. You'll hate it because you feel so restricted, but that's how it works. After the finger starts getting better, tape only the proximal portion of the fingers together (the finger bones closest to the hand). Be careful, and heal quickly.

Roentgen Ray wrote:My first advice, don't take advice from a bunch of strangers and Wes Humps.

are you a doctor or a wes hump too? just wondering what your qualifications are?

What are you tawkin about Roentgen Ray? No one is a stranger here on RRC.com. It's like walking into Cheers when you log on.

Right on, Stephanie!

Ooops.
I mean....Meadows!

Just call me Dr. Wes Hump Stranger.

I think I remember Eric Horst saying something similar to what Ray is suggesting in relation to finger tendon problems?

since you're not supposed to place ice directly on the body...specially where it doesn't have much padding....i place my finger(s) in ice water