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Big Country
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 8:06 pm
by Legion
I attempted the rap-in approach to this route yesterday...hiked all the way down to the left end of Long Wall, took the trail to the top and then hiked/scrambled/bushwacked down to the Shield area.
I came to a pair of new looking bolts with Fixe hangers that seemed like they were in about the right spot, but the route below them didn't look like what I had envisioned.
The weather started turning sour so we didn't have much time to look around.
Where was I???
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 8:09 pm
by Wes
Over a route that Chris put up. Mixed. I think mid 10 and R rated. Not sure if it has been sent yet. I think a bunch of people get it confused with Big Country, as it is the first bolt you come to when doing the regular start. Big country was maybe 50 feet to climbers right from where you were.
Wes
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 8:15 pm
by Legion
Thanks Wes. I knew something wasn't right.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 9:46 pm
by The Pirate
we put new fixe rap rings on the very top of Big Country several years ago, From what Legion said it sounds like they were in the right spot. Although I am not familiar with the route that Wes was talking about. Why were you going to rap in? The first pitch is nothing special,but it is not that bad...
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 9:57 pm
by Legion
Rapping in sounded like the preferred option in John's guide. I didn't check the online guide beforehand but after seeing the directions there I think I will come up from the bottom next time.
There were no rings at this anchor - just Fixe hangers. I didn't see any anchors with rings to the right but then again I didn't look too hard either.
The anchors I found were on the very highest part of the Shield.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 10:18 pm
by The Pirate
were they metolius rap anchors or fixe hangers?
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 10:29 pm
by Wes
If you are looking up at the shield from the first rap station on the ledge, there is a route with bolt just to the right. At the top of this route, there are/were rap anchors. Big Country starts way to the right, and has a set of anchors as well.
The ground up path is OK, but kinda dirty, and the trees are dying, so be carefull if you use them...
Wes
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 10:52 pm
by The Pirate
Yep...thats kinda how I remember it too, but it has been awhile. I must get back up there soon!!!
Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2004 10:48 pm
by Wicked Tribe
The route you mentioned is called Zen Master Dude. Its 5.10-ish, runout a bit to the bolt and run out a bit above the bolt.
Big Country is a few yards to the east and has obvious rings.
ZMD only has belay bolts at the top.
Next time you're there just do BC from the ground up. Its not that hard. Then TR Nautical Twilight, Accidentally Kelly Street 5.9+R/X (just left of the main blunt prow of the Shield) and ZMD. There area few other variations and routes possible up there.
Big Country Direct 5.7 R/X-start directly below the crack on Big Country and climb a plumbline to the summit.
I think JB may have climbed something to the right of BC and someone else mentioned a possible route a few yards to the left of ZMD a couple years ago.