RRC Archives

I keep seeing the Teeth Buttress whenever going down FS9b. Does anyone know much about the climbing and approach for it? Has anyone been there recently? Is it worth going to? Does it have potential for new stuff? It looks like a large area but has that rounded, runout slab look from a distance.

I think the book says theres one ok line up there and not much else. There is definatly great stuff in every direction from there.Minus tirith,willies wall, Muscle beach,purple valley. 9b just rocks for trad.

I've been to purple valley. I went to indian creek crag there last december and got on indian castle and slimy creatures, very fun stuff. That's when i noticed the teeth and got kinda intrigued.

I have been up there to check it out, It looks so cool from the road in the winter when you can see it, but there is not much up there worth doing. We were looking for possible new lines, but none were found. Just made for a good day hike.

Is the rock qaulity Ok on slimy creatures and indian castle? A couple people said the routes on that side were chossy.Is the gear good?

The rock quality on slimey creatures is good. The pro is medium to large 2 to a 4 camalot size. It's a tall route but it's a dihedral and has great stances. Then comes the top- about 10 - 15 feet of slab, good friction but no pro, a little bit of lichen but not bad. To a small tree with numerous slings on it. At first I wanted to walk off but got my head back and rapped down, it takes two ropes to get down.

Indian Castle is FUN! Bottom has an off-width buldge that needs the BIG friend or a big-bro, very wide pro. Pull the sketchy buldge and you have low angle wide crack 3.5 4.5 camalot to the hole at the top. It only took three pieces to protect the route, hard to mess up after the buldge. Belay out of the hole. Climb down a cavey route to a chimney and downclimb, it looks scary but you would almost have to try to fall in it.

Both climbs are fun!

The crag's a little hard to find, no trail-bushwack uphill then try to find regrown old timber road and go uphill again. Top out at indian castle, go right around corners to slimey's dihedral.

while your there do the scramble which goes into the center of the Indian Castle,then pops out the top!!

There's a newer more direct approach now than the one listed in the guidebook.

Most approaches are newer and more direct than listed inthe guidebook. Sheesh, whoever wrote that thing must stay lost.