Page 1 of 7
Unrepeated trad
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 5:43 pm
by Thrax
In another forum captain static mentioned an unrepeated 5.11. Does anyone know which route that may be? Why is it unrepeated? Is it a published route? Should it be repeated? Also, are there other unrepeated published routes?
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:12 pm
by Thrax
I am
no one has any info.
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:14 pm
by Wes
You expected an answer in just under and hour and a half? Maybe give it a couple days.
Wes
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:15 pm
by Thrax
Time is running out for me.
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:20 pm
by SCIN
The route is The Return of Batman. It's up at Indian Staircase.
My friend and I tried it. It's about five feet of heinous offwidth/flared slot. It's harder than the grade. We broke off the only hold we could find while attempting it so it's even harder now I'm sure.
There aren't any unrepeated routes I know of........well there is one I named Resurrection Crack that hasn't seen a repeat but as soon as the "land owner" gives me the "OK" then I'll turn Horatio loose on it to give it a repeat. I gave it 5.12b and it's a short, overhanging fingercrack. Pretty powerful and bouldery.
There are definitely some rarely repeated routes though (5.12 and above): You can search the online guide for directions:
Country Lovin' 5.12b
Welcome to Ol' Kentuck 5.13a
Hidden Dragon 5.12c
Mr. Get it on Jones 5.12d
Drug Pusher 5.12a
Days of Rage 5.12d?(I've only toproped it. Hasn't been lead yet.)
Not Ice 5.12a
Vascular Massacre 5.12a (? I wasn't sure what to rate it) Short and powerful
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:33 pm
by Thrax
Thanks for the response. When I heard captain static mention an uprepeated 5.11, I was curious why it had not seen a repeat. I seem to recall someone spraying about top roping a new trad route at Torrent.
Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 12:48 am
by Spragwa
Yeah, I think Terry put up a new route up at Torrent that's supposed to be an 11. It's kind of cool to stand underneath and look up at it. You get something akin to vertigo!
Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 1:22 am
by aaron
i think it is called dark city, 11d mixed or so.
Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 2:57 am
by captain static
Small correction, it is called Here Comes Batman. A pic of it is posted in the album
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... pic_id=474
Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 1:53 pm
by aaron
terry route's called dark city, i think