Dave the Dude beta

Post by **Stewy911** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 12:40 am

whats crackin people? anyways quick question for the ascendants of dave the dude. how the hell dude you do the crux move? Mike and I tried it today for about 45 minutes falling and falling and falling. heres where i got on the crux: left hand on the shitty gaston on the flake, then right hanmd in the mono pocket and was trying to work my left foot up on the flake higher to throw for the jug and i kept slipping. i really couldnt get my right foo up. there seemed to be some good holds out right and i thought i would be able to use them but they run out and its a huge dynamic move to the fake jug......can anyone ou there help mike and I out
thanks climbers

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 12:48 am

go up the face holds till they run out. make a long reach with your left to the jug. i thought the crux was the next part of laybacking?

Post by **Stewy911** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 1:26 am

thx matt is i that easy that move was long as crap i thought? maybe i didnt scope it out as much but i was going left which i guess was retarded.........anyways thnkls yo

Post by **SCIN** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 3:40 am

Go up until you can step left. Get your right hand in the pocket, reach out to the gaston in the crack.. Look for a small left foot on the edge of the arete then reach up right into the crack and lay back.

Post by **Thrax** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 3:40 am

Most people try going up the face until the holds run out. Then they can't figure out how to hang the draw. Do not, I repeat, do not try heading to the flake lower on the route until you try the following beta. Stay on the face holds as eat me raw suggested. Reach up right to a two finger side pull undercling, get your feet up, hang the draw(the mental crux), I have seen many people die trying to hang this draw, then move back down for a shake, move up, make the clip, head left to the flake. This is a big move. Then it gets pumpy. Pay attention to your feet, these are the things your shoes are on. Good luck on this overlooked classic!

Post by **Stewy911** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 6:55 am

so after you pull the crux i was talking about it gets worse?
i just loved that move i was trying to pull it was fun by techincal and balancy, atleasdt the way i was doing it. maybe if i stay right until the holds go away i can throw for it like u r saying then u say the epic begins or is it opver the climb looks easy after that? like the top of bandolier actually? maybe i am retarded.
thanks for the comments tho yos

Post by **t bone** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 12:50 pm

Once you to get to the flake the hard part is over.

Post by **Thrax** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 1:14 pm

Regardless of how you get to flake, you can still pump out and fall from this route. You are climbing in the RED! There are no hard moves. Unless of course you can't do the move, then there are hard moves in the Red. Remember, you could be pumped from hanging the tough draw(unless the draw is already there from an earlier failed attempt), then after making it to the flake you will be even more pumped, this is when bad things happen. In other words, it is possible to fall after doing all the hard stuff. The anchors are waiting.

Post by **Artsay** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 4:22 pm

DON'T DO THIS ROUTE!
You WILL die.
Regardless if you hold onto the holds with your hands, thoses things on the end of your arms. You will fall. And you will die.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 4:27 pm

die, Die, DIE!

Mj