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FFA V. FFA /FFFA?
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 5:50 pm
by Wes
So, I was watching "A day in the Life: Five women who Climb" the other day. Great movie showing some FFA's (First Female Assent). Then I looked at the new climbing, the editorial talks about FFA (First Female Assent) V. FFA (Female First Accent). And that it seem like there are more women doing hard repeats then putting up hard new lines. If you look at the hardest FFFA (Female First Free Assent), Lynne Hill on the nose, you can see to potential is there, but it doesn't seem like as many women are trying to push for that kind of glory. The editorial also talks about some of the harder cracks that get done by women, and that they are a bit easier since they have smaller hands, etc. Which is kinda true?
Then there is a pic of Steph Davis doing the first female accent of the crackhouse. You should see her tape job - all the way to the elbows. Which shows that having small hands can be an issue as well.
Wes
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 6:39 pm
by andy_lemon
A day in the life was pretty good... some parts were really boring however. I've always had a thing for Beth Rhoden, thought she was hot or something... that is until she spoke on the video.
Anyhow, I don't see why they need to change the original meaning of FFA = First Free Accent. Everytime I see FFA listed, I will think First Free Accent. Not First Female Accent but First Free Accent.
Hay, who was that chick from Vegas? The business lady... she was the most interesting to watch.
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 6:43 pm
by Guest
yeah, FFA to me is First Free Ascent - male or female. I dunno why more women do not do FFA's, but maybe it's because women, in general, aren't after glory?
Wes, if that is your movie, could I borrow it sometime?
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 6:46 pm
by MiaRock
i have a copy you can borrow anytime...
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 6:47 pm
by Guest
sweet! Thank you. Dinner AND a movie!!
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 6:50 pm
by Wes
I just thought it was intresting article and movie. Talks alot about gender issues in climbing and stuff, and you know I am all about that kind of thing....
It is a Wes's but not me. Wes from IN let Leah borrow it. I believe there are some other copies about though.
Wes
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 6:55 pm
by MiaRock
stephanie forte is the girl from vegas she also writes for climbing and rock and ice. she is definitely my favorite too.
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 7:00 pm
by MiaRock
the boys take all the good lines first
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 7:49 pm
by rhunt
Sandy,
Are you sure women aren't in it for the glory or is that just an excuse? I am not at all trying to slam women but maybe they're just not as adventurous. I am always phyched to see women out climbing without men, we need more of that..right guys. It's the assertive, independent, brave, tuff women that put up new routes not the "I just climb with my boyfriend" or "I only climb hard when my trusted male friend belays me" types.
just my 2 cents
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 8:04 pm
by Guest
rhunt, I honestly can't answer your question. Maybe it has to do with sheer numbers. There really aren't as many women in climbing, and most people just don't stick to climbing after a few years. So the number of women who progress to hard levels is dramatically smaller than the number of men. So if you look at ratios, maybe they are right on? Afterall, only a small percentage of accomplished male climbers are glory seekers, right?
Am I making sense?