Climbing shoe of the future

Post by **jrvela** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 4:34 pm

First and foremost I wish you all a Merry Christmas!

I was reading the Technology New at http://www.cnn.com/ this morning and they have an article about up coming technologies that may mature in the next couple of years. One that caught my attention was this:

"Gecko tape: Lizards climb walls using the mechanical adhesive force of millions of tiny hairs on their feet. A synthetic version of those microscopic hairs allows gecko tape, developed at England's University of Manchester, to stick to almost any surface without glue. Applications include gloves that allow a person to climb a glass wall, the ability to move computer chips in a vacuum, and new bandages."

Hmmmm. Will climbing shoe manufacturers use this rubber? When sticky shoes first came out traditionalist climbers regarded them as cheating. Sticky rubber as we know it today did change the climbing limits and pushed the YDS beyond the 5.9 cap. It would be unthinkable to do 5.12s without sticky rubber. With this new technology, I wonder if it will become more common for mortals to do routes that were the sole domain of the elite. I wonder if the original pioneers of these routes will cry "cheat" when climbers start doing their routes with this new sticky rubber.

If you are interested here is the link for the whole article: http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/ptech/12/2 ... index.html

Post by **SikMonkey** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 4:49 pm

I know climbers that can send 5.12 in Tevas so I think it's more about the climber than it is the shoe rubber. Today's climbing shoe rubber is about as sticky as it needs to be to push the limits if you ask me. Stealth C4 and Stealth HF are quite sticky and even Mad Rubber and Traxx (from Evolv) are stickier than your average rubber. In my opinion, grip strength will always have to evolve faster than sticky shoes. This is because you can always smear your feet on things that you could never grip with your hands, but you won't find a hold you can grip with your hands that your feet won't be able to stick to also. Sorry if that sounds like mindless rambling, but I just got up a half an hour ago.

Mj

Post by **longlegsrule** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 5:17 pm

I know a guy that can climb V4s barefoot....he's got the biggest freakin' big toe you've ever seen!!

Post by **dhoyne** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 6:43 pm

So it might not be revolutionary if on shoes, but thing about Gecko gloves... suddenly 5.14 slab is no big deal.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 6:44 pm

There was a guy in England who climbed a 14 bare-foot. If I'm not mistaken.

Post by **Legion** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 11:24 pm

What happens when Joe Schmoe gets a pair of these gloves and is suddenly gecko-ing his way alongside your "pure" ascent of El Cap that you have been working towards your whole life? No longer will the views, solitude, and summits we cherish be exclusive to us. What will become of our beloved pastime???? Would you still climb? Would you climb even if it meant sharing the crag with the geckos? (It may be a little premature but I have already placed them in the same category as sport-re-pel-lers) Would you carry a pair of gecko gloves on you for those just-in-case situations? Would you take them along intentionally to get past that one crux pitch on a long route you have always wanted to put up? Would it constitute a first ascent with A0 or is the route not done until every pitch is climbed without gecko gloves? Is it better to bolt on lead using gecko gloves then to rap bolt? If I see a cam in The Inhibitor and I use my gecko gloves to go get it are the booty gods going to frown upon me? Is there anything that can't be climbed in gecko gloves? Will there be anything difficult left to climb?
oh wait, I just remembered that Pink Sock hasn't gone yet.
Now I can sleep.

Post by **jrvela** » Thu Dec 25, 2003 12:10 am

Looking back at history of rock climbing there have been gadgets and/or tactics introduced into the sport that have caused reactions from the climbing community.

Climbing shoes as we know them today caused quite a stir in its time.

Some people regarded (or still do) the use of chalk as evil.

Natural protection (trad) vs bolted protection (sport) was one of the biggies that divided the community. Hell, this is still going on.

Rap bolting vs ground up bolting.

Chipping and glueing holds to bring the route to ones level.

It will be interesting to see this Gecko material will be pushed by gear manufacturers and embraced by future generations of climbers coming of the gyms.

It will also be interesting where the line be drawn in the future.

I like the A0 rating Legion. If the line fully bolted a C0 will be more accurate.

Post by **allah** » Thu Dec 25, 2003 2:21 am

I know someone that did steel worker, and most of the routes on the undertow wall in his tennis shoes. That mother fucker is wicked strong, but i guess it helps that he has all dem dare routes wired, and can tell you just about every sequence of any route there.

Post by **ynot** » Thu Dec 25, 2003 2:23 am

I suspect gecko gloves would clog with sand and dirt and be useless by decking hieght.

Post by **longlegsrule** » Thu Dec 25, 2003 6:09 am

aw it's just a farce...who cares what other people use to get up a route...

I don't know bout ya'll but I don't climb for anyone else but me...if I wanna try some silly sticky gloves (and have the $) I will...I think I'd prefer climbin' natural like though...

kinda defeats the purpose of climbing I think...seems like you should try with your own skill...but then you could argue that point with climbing shoes too