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beta/partners needed

Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 6:49 pm
by greg78gs750
Hi All,

I am headed down to the Red this weekend, sat. thru tuesday, to do some climbing with my family. I used to climb quite a bit and am getting back into it to introduce my love of mountains to the kids. I have been to the RRG years ago but was hoping for some beta....

1. We will be doing easy/moderate stuff, what is the culture like with respect to letting others catch a ride on toprope? Our local area (such that it is in michigan, lolz) has a very welcoming informal policy of letting folks jump on a toprope if it isnt in use....Since I will be with the kids and my leading is not what it used to be, some pre-set topropes would be....convenient.

2. It's looking cold this week, any easy/moderate crags that are sunnier than others?

3. Where is a good spot to head to? I have the older Ellington guidebook from 2005, but a lot has changed since then.... As stated, we will have 3 lil' uns with us, ages 9, 8, and 5, all have climbed before, but.....with kids there is always potential for extra noise/nuisance....

4. Would anyone be up for joining us? I am pretty well geared up with 2 60 m single ropes, 2 1/2 ropes (good for topropes for the kiddies) and a pretty full trad rack, so gear is not really an issue, BUT an extra set of hands and a rope-gun (is that still a term?) is awesome to have around!!

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give!!!!

Greg Anderson

Re: beta/partners needed

Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 3:25 pm
by wildhanimal
Of course everyone is different, but I would not personally ever ask to jump on another party's toprope. Nor would I be very comfortable with a stranger asking to use my rope. The bigger issue here is that if you're at a crowded crag, no one should ever be leaving a rope hanging on a route unused. Running through someone else's draws with your own rope is somewhat more common.

Bruisebrothers Wall in Muir Valley has some easy & moderate routes, and gets all day sun.
Muir Valley has several kid-friendly crags. 'Practice Wall' might also be a good place to start.

Have fun!

Re: beta/partners needed

Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 4:33 pm
by OMP
Second the Bruise Bros. comment. Even has a fun little trad route to play with.
Have fun! Glad to hear you're getting your kids out. :D

Re: beta/partners needed

Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 6:48 pm
by greg78gs750
Thanks for the replies, every area is a bit different, so I figured I'd ask. Won't be long and the kids will be climbing harder than me, won't take much these days..... Here's hoping the weather forecast is pessimistic....