RRC Archives

Any chance the Kentucky Wall is going to be added to the online guide anytime soon?

Putting illegally bolted walls online will cause bigger problems.

The Kentucky Wall could be published online here without repercussion. Those are traditional climbs they are not bolted.

Heath said they would probably go online soon. All of the climbs are in line with the current national forest service guidelines and should not stir any pots.

Adding new bolt anchors where there were none before is not in line with FS guidelines. And, placing webbing at the top of a crack 10 minutes before it's "rebolted" does not qualify as replacement of anchors.

I realize people want new climbs. But "Kentucky Wall," and more of its kind that would surely follow, risks return to 1990s anti-climber FS policies. Illegal development of crags is a selfish move by a few people who think their FAs are more important than everyone else's guaranty of legal FS climbing.

do you know something we don't?
Do you think that Heath's development is not on the FS's radar screen? He's been quite public about his activity. I say put them out there.

According to DBNF website:

Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering
or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes
involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or
new trail construction requires prior Forest Service
authorization. 261.9.

(Link: https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO ... 514248.pdf)

I have never heard of anyone actually receiving "prior Forest Service authorization," although I know a few have tried. If "Kentucky Wall" is legit, then that's awesome. Show us the authorization and put it online.

"Kentucky Wall, and more of its kind that would surely follow, risks return to 1990s anti-climber FS policies."

And ...

"I have never heard of anyone actually receiving "prior Forest Service authorization," although I know a few have tried."

So you mean current anti-climber policy?

New Trad routes have been going up in the North Gorge at a fairly steady clip for crags that old and developed.

Let’s first talk history. The anti-climbing proposal in the 1990s was not to ban bolting. It was to ban climbing, all climbing. The current “no new bolts” policy was a compromise. It was achieved because people like Shannon convinced the FS that climbers were responsible. That compromise almost collapsed a few times, such as when a climber cut down a tree and bolted an illegal line over an archaeological site. That particular area is still closed, btw.

I’ve heard the FS is open to allowing new LEGAL bolting in DBNF. I'm sure the sticking point is what impact will it have on natural resources. FS already is concerned about its 150+ miles of user defined trials and actively trying to close some of them down. I can’t imagine another “hominy hole” incident will help anything in that regard. Putting Kentucky Wall online will be as responsible as posting an Instagram picture of yourself with a power drill in Clifty Wilderness.