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Good routes for practice falls
Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 9:04 pm
by laurenannhill
Hello everyone!
I'm planning a trip to the Red this fall, and am wondering if anyone can suggest some good sport routes in the 10s, (or maybe low 11s), that are good for taking practice falls? I'm thinking, well bolted and slightly overhanging...
What do you think? This is the season that I will conquer this fear of falling business once and for all!
Thank you!
Re: Good routes for practice falls
Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 4:26 am
by Rx2Climb
Johnny B. Good - 11a
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... te&id=1314
Tall with easy (5.8 maybe easier) climbing for 50 feet. Then a severally overhung section of a few bolts to the anchors. I have purposely slacked climbers so they will take +30 ft whips on the route. Very clean falls. Best route to fall on in the red?
Re: Good routes for practice falls
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 12:00 am
by DrRockso
Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch
Re: Good routes for practice falls
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 1:02 pm
by laurenannhill
Thank you! Super helpful!!
Re: Good routes for practice falls
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 2:39 pm
by Chiyram
Does the grade change the fall some how? A local gym, if you have one, is a good place to take some practice falls. Then go to the Red to crush your projs with nerves of steel. Or like me, bring your nerves of yarn and hope they get strong.
Re: Good routes for practice falls
Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2018 3:54 am
by DrRockso
I
Mdjagg wrote:DrRockso wrote:Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch
In regards to Getting Lucky in Ky and Plate Techtonics, I wouldn't mind falling on this route if it happened, becasue it is overhung a bit, but I wouldn't go there to practice falling. Those routes have very un-uniform faces and you could easily sprain an ankle if you hit in between any of the plates. Just my opinion.
If you're at The Gallery, +1 for Johnny B Good for open air practice falls, and then Preacher's Daughter has a nice clean face to practice coming into the wall. This one is just barely overhung. It's also one of my favorite routes near its grade. Super fun.
As a climbing guide I have had dozens of clients learning to lead climb take practice falls on Plate Tectonics and Getting Lucky, no sprained ankles yet. Perhaps you need a better belayer.
Re: Good routes for practice falls
Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2018 5:14 pm
by Prog_Rocker
What makes a practice lead fall different from a victory whip?
Re: Good routes for practice falls
Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2018 3:25 am
by DrRockso
One is practicing for an inevitable normal part of sport climbing, the other involves getting several yards of extra slack from your belayer to make the fall unnecessarily long, no doubt a fun practice outside of Muir
Unfortunately we have to deal with morons like these guys
https://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-w ... 5-12a-rrg/ that cause rules like this to exist at areas like Muir.