RRC Archives

Anyone have any type biners they think are unsafe?
Any stories of biner failures?

Any opinion on the ultra light biners like the neutrinos or newer ones?

What do you carry on your rack and why?...pros/cons

Thanks for the input

I love neutrinos for racking- their not bulky, and you can fit more gear if you need it!

I like Wild Country biners -- they just seem to fit my hand right and I have the easiest time clipping them.

I got old Klog biners and they are difficult to clip into. The gate opening is rather small. It could be that I've got fat fingers that don't work too well. Always hoping that Santa will be good to me and leave me a new set under the tree but it hasn't happened yet. Maybe this year!

I use neutrino's and I like them just fine.

I have a lot of the positrons. the key lock feature is great when dealing with runners. They are also not too bulky. I also like the BD oval wires.

I don't like the wires. All of mine don't open smoothly. The gates just seem to get stickier or something faster than most other biners....shoot, ALL other biners I've ever had.

Without a doubt, Petzl Spirits are the best. You pay for it, though.

I have the Omega Dovals. Look cool (red), but gate opening is kind of small. Takes a little getting used to (clipping). I use them for racking and are great for that.

I carry straight gate spirits for the bolts, and DMM wire gate for the rope. I hate most wire gates, but the DMM are pretty cool (no grooves on the end, and they save me 1/4 pund on a complete rack). Wire gates are also safer (much less rebound effect) and also less likely to have ice build up on them on those cold days.

Biner failure is almost un-heard of - on any binner. Usually, the rock will go first, second your pro, and third is probably the tie-in point (according to some of the books that I have read).

check out the charts on open and closed strength. it seems there is not much difference across the board between wire and full gates although there are differences between manufacturers. I use Petzel Spirits (straight and bent) on my quickdraws, supposably bent gates can vibrate open easier, and Petzels have a higher open gate strength rating. I also use Omega ovals and D's on my slings. D's are supposed to allow for easier load along the long axis. Only time I've had a biner open is on a fall, my end of the rope hit one of the draws and clipped in, it was weird. I think the more important issue is how are the biners placed and potentially loaded