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Cleaning Anchors

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:34 pm
by Artsay
When you're cleaning anchors on a sport route (hanging), what's your safety setup? Do you have a sling attached to you with a locking biner to anchor into the anchors with.? Or do you use quick draws? Do you hang on one safety or two?

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:39 pm
by Guest
I use 2 daisies and lockers. Does that mean I can't climb with Team Safety anymore?

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:41 pm
by tsparks
I always use one sling with a locker AND a quickdraw. I'm always super paranoid when I'm cleaning a route so I like to have two points of contact and triple check all of my knots and stuff.

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:42 pm
by dhoyne
Two slings girth hitched to my harness and clipped into the anchors. I'll only use draws if I forget the slings.

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:49 pm
by merrick
one daisy chain with a locker. I attach it to one bolt and I use one of the draws on the anchor to attach to my daisy as redundency.

i also will use the rope tied to a locker attached to a belay loop trick to hold the rope if the draws are still on. an extra level of security i guess. i haven't lowered with it since that girl decked a few years back when she attached it to gear loop accidentally. but maybe i will start doing that again. i will just double check that i am in my belay loop.

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:56 pm
by Yasmeen
dhoyne wrote:Two slings girth hitched to my harness and clipped into the anchors. I'll only use draws if I forget the slings.
I do the same. I've also started rapping down instead of lowering.

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 7:01 pm
by Meadows
I just use 2 draws. Should I use a sling instead?

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 7:09 pm
by Guest
I like using the daisies (girth hitched to my belay loop) because I can adjust the length for my comfort, depending on the route/anchors. I never take them off my harness so I can never forget them. I feel much safer using locking biners, so using draws wouldn't give me warm fuzzies. Cleaning the anchors and then rapelling - which I always try to do as opposed to lowering - is the most dangerous part of climbing in my mind and I don't think you can be too careful.

If you do use daisies, make sure you understand not to connect to 2 loops!

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 7:10 pm
by GWG
I use a sling attached to one of the anchors with a locker. Before untying the rope, I feed a byte through the rings/chain and then tie a figure 8 with it. This gets attached via a locker to my belay loop. At this point, I then untie my knot and pull the end of the rope through and retie back into my harness where I had untied it. I then undo the locker and untie the figure 8 on a byte and give the slack back to my belayer. Once I have double checked my knot and weighted it, I then undo my sling.

By doing this, I am never off the rope. There is always rope passing from the belayer through the anchors to me.

It might take a little more time but I like having the added security of always being tied in.

GWG

Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 7:10 pm
by SCIN
28 slings and a Master Lock joining two locking biners.