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No Fluff
Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2003 5:00 pm
by Power2U
Anyone been on this 11b, cough cough, at the Gold Coast? It is a very cool climb on cool yellow gold rock just to the right of the really hard stuff. I personally thought it was harder than Hippocrite & Scar Tissue, the two short 12a's at The Zoo....definitely harder than Hardcore Jollies...I am trying to think of other short routes to compare it to.
What do you think?
By the way if you haven't seen the Gold Coast and you think The Red doesn't have any variety check this thing out. This chunk of rock is so unique and different, not to mention beautiful...the colors are amazing!
SHM should check these lines out for some steep non technical jug hauling
Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2003 7:49 pm
by tomdarch
When you say 'harder' than those 12s, do you mean 'overall' harder, or 'crux moves' harder?
For what it's worth, the current online guide listing includes the note "Grade may be innacurate."
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1072
Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2003 10:11 pm
by Power2U
I think that this climb is, "overall harder".
I was just trying to see if anyone else had been on this climb and what their thoughts were.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2003 3:26 am
by bigwhipper
The consensus grade I have heard a few times for that route is 11d, its definitely a sandbag for 11b.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2003 4:01 am
by RTimm
I've heard 11d also.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2003 3:07 pm
by Power2U
Thanks for the input. It is definitely solid even for 11d... but 11d is reasonable.
It is amazing how grades affect your expectations on a climb. I got onthsi thing thinking 11b no problem.... as I was climbing it I kept expecting the next hold to be good..you know... "11b, this thing has to have some big holds on it somewhere."
Then when I got to the shelf above the last bolt and it was a sloper I was shocked. My brain was prepared for better holds and when they weren't ther I didn't know what to do
If the climb had a harder grade I would have expected worse holds and been better off...funny how that works