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despite the strong bouldering draw the red has, i've decided that i'd like to head to hueco tanks this new years to log some falls on my crash pad. i understand, however, that i need to get a permit to climb in the northern mountain area. i emailed one of the park informants and they replied, "Are you referring to a blundering area in a State Park?" i have to admit, it sounds fun. still, though, i think i'd rather boulder around as opposed to blunder like a drunken fool. this is where you guys come in: any suggestions or advice on how to go about getting a climbing reservation? any advice on camping/sleeping in my car? any ideas on what to climb? any thoughts on hueco tanks in general? thanks guys

To climb on the North Mountian, you need a day pass. There are only like 70 or so people allowed at any one time. There are 7 or 10 walk up passes per day, and there rest are from reservations. I think they are totally booked as far as reservations go for most the winter already. So, you would have to get up super early, and wait in line for one of the walk up passes. To go to east or west mountain, you have to be part of a tour. There are two kinds of tours - paid and unpaid. The paid ones are around $15 per day if you are staying at the heuco rock ranch. Otherwise I think they are a bit more. Oh, and it is $4-5 dollars a day to get into the park, unless you are on a paid tour.

Camping wise, you pretty much have two options - Pete and the rock ranch. Pete's is pretty much just a parking area, nothing nice, and is $4.00. The ranch is pretty nice and is $5.00. You don't want to be sleeping in your car in the country around there, lot's of crime and stuff.

There is a lot of red tape kind of stuff to go through, so make sure you understand all that is involved before commiting to a trip. I am planning on being there for a month or so, and have no reservations, so I will have to do a lot of crap to boulder. It is, however, worth the trouble to me.

Wes

The reservations are booked for sure. A friend of mine just tried to get some days in the park and they shot him down. I'll be down here for a bit as well Wes. We'll have to throw down together on the little rocks.

Keenan

wes, thanks so much for the info. it's greatly appreciated. how can i check to see if the dates i'm interested in going down are booked? and how early are we talking about getting up for the day passes?

in terms of camping, is sleeping in the car an option? thanks again man.

i think pete's is only 2 bucks a night but you don't get much(at least it was last time i was there it was 2 bucks). people do gurrilla camp out in the desert but it is not the best idea. the rock ranch is very nice but brutal on dirtbag budget. i have slept in my car at both pete's and robs and paid full at both for the honor.

during high season i imagine you are getting up and being at the gates when the park opens which if i remember correctly is 8 am.

i think you can get a texas states park pass for 25 if you are going to be there long enough for it to be cost effective. that way you won't have to worry about the daily park fees.

i will be there at the end of jan and again at the end of feb. i don't like spending too much time there becuase of the red tape but a few weeks is definately worth it.

ps. don't bother with the trad climbing there and stick with the bouldering.

During the bust times, like T-giving to New Years, is booked, and I think you have to get to the gates by 6:00 or so to have any shot at a day pass. You can also wait for people to leave in the afternoon or try to get on a tour.

As Merrick said, sleeping in the car stil costs the same at the camp grounds, and I wouldn't camp anywhere else around there.

Wes

Here is the link to Hueco Tanks website. There is number on here you can call to make reservations. I do not know all of the details about camping.

http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/hueco/

Ernie, you have no fuckin clue what you are talking about. Go back to your cooking and cleaning, thats all you are good for