RRC Archives

How do you normally split your time between onsighting and working routes vs. just climbing for fun?

What does "climbing for fun" mean? The fun for me is pullling that bitchass hard crux move like it was nothing, then sitting at the anchor chains admiring your latest work of art.

Mj

Climbing is fun all the time. If 'working a route' is not fun; why are you doing it?

Good call no grain. Fun is such a subjective word too though. What is viewed as fun for one could be too much work for someone else.

Mj

Let me clarify. First I would like to agree that any time I am climbing I am having fun.

Now, "Climbing for fun" to me is when I'm just out getting on as many climbs as I can and not worrying at all about whether or not I onsight/flash/redpoint the climb, and "working a route" is exactly that. Picking a route that you want to send and focusing on nothing but finishing it until you have sent it.

Exactly. It's all a matter of opinion. Personally, I have to be biting the bullet before I am having fun.

Mj

I give two or three tries to working a route before moving on. My belayer has a short attention span. I go for more (quantity) in my climbing trips than number chasing, So I climb below my grade.

I am assuming that this all refers to sport climbing, whcih is what I mostly climb. It is hard to say, but I think I enjoy climbing the most when I really have to struggle and put a lot of effort into a route.

I started trad climbing this summer and that was the most enjoyable climbing I have ever done.

I do a periodized training as follows: rest (1-4 wks), endurance (6-8 wks), power (3-4 wks), power endurance (2-3 wks), rest (1 wk), peak performance (4-8 wks). In this context I do a lot of for fun climbing during the endurance phase. The power phase is bouldering. Power endurance includes some working of routes. Peak performance is a mixture of on sight & redpoint w/ maybee a little fun stuff as a warm down.

you're weird. i want to send every route i get on.