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Ego Climbing

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 7:44 pm
by Artsay
I just don't get it...
Why does trad have to suck and sport climbing rule?
Or...
Sport climbing have to suck and trad rule?
Or...
Why does all route climbing have to suck and bouldering rule?

So what, I'm not a boulderer because I don't strictly boulder? Or I'm not a sport climber because I like climbing trad? Or I'm not as a devoted climber because I don't drop everything in my life just to climb?

If I ever meet anyone out there and make you feel like you shouldn't love every crack, route, clip, or boulder problem you've ever done, please give me a big ol' FUCK YOU and set me straight, OK?

"The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun." -Alex Lowe

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 7:55 pm
by tomdarch
Just so long as we all agree that non-technical mountaineering sucks, then we're all OK! :lol: (Anyone who schleps uphill endlessly with a heavy pack is crazy! It's like the worst approach ever, but without a route at the top! WTF?!?)

Seriously, though - the biggest problem I have (from my perspective) are the people who highly value the 'risk' element of climbing and deride all other climbing because it's 'safe'. I hate to say it, but there was a mini-interview with Yvon Chouinard in one of the mags recently, where he disparaged a lot of contemporary climbing (particularly bouldering) because it didn't have a signifigant element of risk. I can see that some people would get a great reward from 'risky' climbing, but I don't think that it's fair to insist that anyone who engages in low-risk climbing is engaging in a 'lesser' activity. That strikes me as pretty fucking 'ego' driven.

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 7:59 pm
by Artsay
I think I saw an excerpt from that article. After his schpeel about bouldering not being a pure form of climbing because there wasn't any risk factor in it he was asked about his current climbing plans and he admitted he was nursing an injury from a bouldering accident! HA! The irony....

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 8:02 pm
by pigsteak
for the same reason men make more money than women at their jobs...

for the same reason there is a guiness book of world records...

for the same reason we keep track of how much we weigh, or at least obsess when we are heavier than we want...

for the same reason professional athletes get paid big bucks, and janitors make $5.50 an hour...


that reason?...society has always been competitive, and always will be. those with the power (sport climbers) make the rules. some climbing is inferior to other forms...consensus seems to say that those who climb indoors only are not "real climbers"...consensus seems to say that top roping is inferior to leading...consensus seems to say that chipping holds to "cheat" is inferior to meeting the rock as is...somebody made these arbitrary rules up... (why is removing rock by drilling a bolt any less "inferior" than chipping a hand hold)

the world is all about a pecking order, and your place in it. like it or not, it is here to stay....

Re: Ego Climbing

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 8:49 pm
by Guest
Artsay wrote:If I ever meet anyone out there and make you feel like you shouldn't love every crack, route, clip, or boulder problem you've ever done, please give me a big ol' FUCK YOU and set me straight, OK?

"The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun." -Alex Lowe
NICE! :D

Re: Ego Climbing

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 9:04 pm
by Wes
Artsay wrote:I just don't get it...

Why does all route climbing have to suck and bouldering rule?
Um, because it's true??? :wink:

I agree that it is funny the labels that are placed on people. Like, I am a "trad" climber to many people, yet, I have done one trad route in the last six weeks or so. Although, there might be a Wes on a rope in the red sighting this weekend...

Wes

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 9:13 pm
by kclimb
Personally, I think we all get a little too "wrapped up" in who climbs what sometimes.

People climb for different reasons. Just because someone climbs 5.13's because they love conquering the challenge does not make them a better person than someone climbing 5.8's because they just love climbing for climbing and are happy with where they are. Sure, they may get hooked and want to climb harder... but if not, who cares? As long as they are happy and having fun it shouldn't matter to anyone. Why bring "judging" into something so fun? I mean, unless you're competing and want to be judged in order to win.....

I know lots of people, myself included, who enjoy sport & trad climbing, have bouldered (and I will enjoy it more as I get better). I consider myself a climber. I'm not the best, or even as good as I hope to be, but I'm having fun getting there. I have SO MUCH to learn!

What's a real drag for me is when I'm made to feel like I'm not welcome to climb with someone because I'm "not as good as them". This really sucks. It should be a comment on the type of person they are, but honestly, it kind of makes me feel like shit. Well, I put it behind me and go climbing anyway. But is sucks that this attitude has to exist at all. Oh well.

Go climb whatever you want to and have a blast!!

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 9:18 pm
by t bone
I really miss my early days of climbing, there were not as many labels. We were just climbers.It was just about the rock.I have enjoyed every type of climbing, sport , trad ,bouldering,ice and non technical mountaineering. The friends you make are the most important part. Most of my old climbing buddies have quit climbing and that really bums me out the most.God bless old bruisebrother for being a good climbing friend for all these years!

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 9:27 pm
by SCIN
To me, rock climbing is all about getting up the section of rock which is placed in front of you. If you have to crimp, you crimp. If you have to jam, you jam. If you have to crank out a difficult and powerful sequence at your limit, you do so. What matters is that you get up the section you are attempting to climb.

Then you are a rock climber. Plain and simple.

Life hasn't changed much since high school. Labels are, and always will be, for fags and brand whores.

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 9:32 pm
by t bone
You got it Ray,its about the rock!