RRC Archives

Most climbing accidents can be prevented (a lot seem to happen while rappelling). What are some tips you all can offer to a more inexperienced person that you think would be helpful? Wes, I'm sure you have a ton of tips so let's hear 'em...

1. Tie both ends together or a safety knot in each rope end to prevent rapping of the ends of the rope.
2. If you're rapping off webbing around a tree, horn, etc., always check the webbing to make sure it isn't weathered, worn, or has been chewed by animals.
3. Learn how to tie a prusik knot and how to use it to aid up a rope.

Never say "OK, take me up." when you are at the top of a route, as your belayer might think you just said, "OK, take me off."

Make sure your partner is paying attention to you, whether he/she is above or below you. Have your partner on the ground spot you while you are coming down... (e.g. "rope not on the ground" "watch the tree" "look at your landing"). A firemans belay can also be helpful.

Number One rule: Always pay full attention.

Number Two rule: Always weight the rope before commiting to the lower/rap. Then if you made a mistake, your slings will catch you.

Wes

That kind of happened to me once, Spray Lord. My partner said just that and I was the belayer. I heard "take me off" and didn't think it seemed right (I had been climbing for about 2 months) and I said, "OK, I'm taking you off belay" and he immediately screamed, "NOOooooOOOO!!!!!". So I guess I'd add on to what you said with: Always verbally express what action your about to take....or something along that line.

If you have long hair, don't get it caught in your rappel device... same goes for your shirt.

I was in Eldo, my belayer thought I was going to belay from the top but I had built an anchor and wanted to just rap down as it was a single pitch and some others were going to TR the route. I actually started to weight the rope(I also wasn't clipped into anything as I was just standing on a ledge... mistake #2) and realized that there was no tension, looked down and she was sitting over by our packs getting a drink of water. Scary shit!

These stories help I think. It's kind of like reading Accidents in North American Mountaineering as it allows us to learn from other people's mistakes.

Use your belayer's name at crowded cliffs. Always be sure that you use the same "climbing vocabulary." For instance, when I am clipped directly into the anchors and am about to clean a sport climb I always say, "I'm in direct" then I ask for a "little" slack to test my gear and then I ask for "cleaning slack." Not everyone uses the same terminology.

Make sure you and your partner talk about communication ahead of time. When one person says something the other person should always shout OK to mean I hear you. OK only means I hear you and understand not OK you are on belay. Don't leave your partner wondering if you heard them. Shout OK. OK

The other week this guy was run out and shouted "Whipping" when he was getting ready to fall. It sounded like "Clipping". You can figure out the rest of the story.

Here are some of my big ones.... though most are just agreeing with what others have already said.

1. Figure out your "system" before you leave the ground. This means figure out what commands you're going to use, how things should work, etc... KNOW before you leave the ground. Assume nothing!

2. Double check everything twice (redundant redundancy?).

3. Carry 2 prussiks at all times or have 2 ways to ascend/lockoff.

4. Always check gear... never trust fixed gear. Don't hesitate to leave a spare nut, biner, sling behind if you are even slightly suspicious. $10 bucks vs. your life is an easy wager.

5. Leave 6 inch tails on a water knot.

6. Understand that Walmart quicklinks are not the same as french Maillon rapides. Guess which one will support you?

7. Always test a system before leaving another (see Wes's post). At my ropes course, a staff memeber of mine once fed only one bight of rope through his ATC when preparing to rappel. He started to lean back and luckily only fell backwards onto a platform. If he had still been clipped in somewhere, he would have been backed up.
btw... he no longer works for me.

8. Try this. Say "take up slack" outloud right now. We usually emphasize the last word, which is also the longest syllable in this phrase... guess which word is the only one your belayer hears?

9. Know how to tie a muenter hitch or make a 'biner break in case you drop your device.

10. INSPECT YOUR ROPE!!

11. Tie back long hair... tuck in clothing. Rappel slowly.

12. Consider using an autoblock if you are the least bit trepidatious.