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Cheater stump on Too Many Puppies...
Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2002 11:17 am
by SikMonkey
Hey guys, I was at Left Flank yesterday and saw that someone had ripped up the starter stump on Too Many Puppies (the arete next to To Defy the Laws....). Has anyone climbed this and did you use it?
Mj
Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2002 12:02 pm
by no grain
holy crap! It seems amazing that it lasted that long. i was going to try that in a couple weeks, without the flimsy 'log' the proposition may be a little more difficult. It's ok, it all works out.
Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2002 12:18 pm
by Guest
sometimes really cool belayers are "on." Of course I have very few ethics when it comes to sport climbing.
Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2002 12:56 pm
by SikMonkey
The only time I get caught up in details like that is when I am going for the send. If I am just working a route, I will grab draws, ropes, roosting buzzards, or just whatever to get me past a difficult move. Funniest thing though, I never noticed that really good pocket down low the first few times I looked at that route. Has it always been there? I guess I was blinded by the stump.
Mj
Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2002 5:13 pm
by Taylor
What about trees that just happen to be growing next to the route? Personally, if I can reach it then it is "on". I am not in a comp.
Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2003 4:13 pm
by dlewis101
Hey, this is a reply to an old message, but for those who want to know,
I did Too Many Pupies w/o the stump and that shiznak is hard. Now the "crux" is getting to the first bolt! The first 10 or so feet are very hard without the stump. What I'm trying to say is, it's hard.
Oh, and the 1/4" bolts with the home made hangers are fun to clip, also.
Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2003 5:13 pm
by SikMonkey
It kind of looked hard. Now I guess I will just have to take a running leap off that boulder and try to snag that good crimp.
Mj
Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2003 3:22 pm
by Guest
Never take "NO" from a piece of wood!
Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2003 5:41 pm
by tomdarch
I think the stump was gone last fall. As usual, I'd strongly suggest stick-clipping the first bolt while working the start (but then, "I luvz mah stick-clip, luvz mah stick clip") I seem to remember doing some stemming off to the left to some tiny foot smear. Also, I'd strongly suggest either being at least 6'2" with a few inches of ape-index (like me) or being a strong climber (not like me
).
Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2003 6:24 pm
by SikMonkey
I'm tellin' ya, the flying leap from the boulder is the way to go. When you land, just latch on to whatever you can get. Yeah, stickclippin is good for sure.
Mj