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Coming to an end.

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 5:25 pm
by SCIN
I love crack climbing. I love offwidths. I love placing gear.
I am getting sad because soon there will be no more cracks in the Red for me to do at my level of fun challenging trad climbing (5.10-5.11). There is nowhere to go after 5.11 trad because I've already done what few 5.12 cracks there are in the Red. Sure, I could work a few projects for the rest of my life and become a Red River Retiree Project Worker like so many sport climbers become but I don't want to do that.

I want to be able to go to the Red and leave having doing a few new 5.10/5.11 cracks. Soon that just won't be possible anymore. I'm getting upset. Is it time to move to Chattanooga and take on the beautiful sandstone walls of Tennesee?

What is a guy to do? Full time sport climbing? Never.
Climb all the routes over again? I already have with most of them.
Hike even further back into the woods? I don't have time for that.

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 5:33 pm
by Legion
Why Chattanooga? Sure its great, but if you are going to move why not go west?

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 5:37 pm
by Spray Lord
You're all washed up SCIN. It's time for you to hang up your long-sleave and your tape-gloves. When you do, I'll trade you a stick-clip and set of short-draws for all of your big gear.

Until then, perhaps Chattanooga is the place to be. I hear there are a lot of off-width roof-cracks in the area.

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 5:49 pm
by rhunt
Ever heard of the New River Gorge...I hear there are a few crack climbs there...

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 5:52 pm
by captain static
Maybee it's time for you to take up big wall climbing & move to the Valley?

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 5:57 pm
by SCIN
To me, there's nothing better than sandstone. That's why Chattytown, Legion. I can't imagine ever leaving the Southeast unless it was for Vedauwoo.

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 5:59 pm
by andy_lemon
Whatever dude... I know that you know that there is endless rock that has never been touched in and around the Gorge. You know that the freakin rock continues on for miles around that area. You know that there are several 11's 12's and 13's you have not done at Dawson Bluffs... you know Southern Illinois is a reasonable distance to travel for an offwidth. But instead of driving across a couple of states just to climb some trad, why not break out the ole machette, fill up the car with gas, and head into the Rhodo?

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 6:00 pm
by Gretchen
You can't go Scin! I am going to park my pregnant butt on you to make you stay put & that is a threat!

Re: Coming to an end.

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 6:02 pm
by Danny
SCIN wrote:I am getting sad because soon there will be no more cracks in the Red for me to do at my level of fun challenging trad climbing (5.10-5.11).
Don't say that. You're hurting my ears and raising my fears. In the back of my mind I've worried about this eventuality but have happily bamboozled myself into thinking it was impossible. Just say "I was just kidding" so I can go on happily like before.

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 6:07 pm
by SCIN
It's true Danny. Very true my good friend. The day will come.
We hike and hike in search of that one last route which we haven't done. Soon, the hikes become days.......then years. You go home on Sunday evening having done only 1 new route. Yes, that's ONE new challenging crack climb.

Andy, I'm well aware of the endless rock in the Red. I'm also well aware of the hours I've spent exploring that rock when I could've been climbing. Bushwhacking takes it's toll on you. I don't want to be another John Bronaugh...armed with a machete, compass and 4WD Vehicle just to find another good clean crack every weekend.