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Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?
Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 2:56 pm
by ghuffster
The online guidebook comments on Darling Dirtbag 5.8 R (Trad) note the newly-bolted route, also just before the rockhouse, bolted by Joe Leismer. Does anyone have a name & grade for this?
Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?
Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 5:20 pm
by climb2core
My Way or the Highway. 5.9
Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 12:17 am
by joe leismer
Sent the route info to Ray. My Way or the Highway. Had several people climb it with a 5.9 consensus. Route is open for climbing, 80 feet, high foot start with bulges and slab towards the top. Spent a lot of time cleaning the route and will be an ongoing endeavor. Hope people enjoy it, cleared some ground area for the belayer and those walking by. Beware of friction if you top-tope.
Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 12:20 am
by joe leismer
Sent the route info to Ray. My Way or the Highway. Had several people climb it with a 5.9 consensus. Route is open for climbing, 80 feet, high foot start with bulges and slab towards the top. Spent a lot of time cleaning the route and will be an ongoing endeavor. Hope people enjoy it, cleared some ground area for the belayer and those walking by. Beware of rope friction if you top-tope.
Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?
Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 2:00 pm
by ghuffster
Thanks for the responses. Nice route, Joe. Thanks for your efforts in setting it and cleaning it up. We really enjoyed the climb. Solid 9, interesting start, nice and tall, and the slab at the top mixes up the terrain nicely. Some small stuff on the lower, vert section was breaking off; but it seemed like a normal part of the breaking-in process. It makes a great addition to the crag.
Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?
Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 9:22 pm
by joe leismer
Thank you for your feedback.