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Muir Sandbag

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 2:16 pm
by Corona
Boom-slang at Tectonic Wall is pretty massively sandbagged at 11c. There's a comparable route next to it graded 12b that I onsighted on the same day in good conditions. I was completely unable to do the move on Boom-slang. Tried an all points of dyno, fig4, and drop kneeing above my head - all to avoid crimps that were substantially worse than the crux crimps on the 12b to the right. All pretty hilarious. Fortunately, it's quite safe, so no biggee. Still, I think the tags may have gotten mixed up.

Re: Muir Sandbag

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 3:27 pm
by ikratzer
It looks like boom-slang has disappeared from the guide and been replaced with a 12b called cotton mouth. I think the 11c grade was speculation before the actual FA, but not sure.

Re: Muir Sandbag

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 4:13 pm
by Corona
That would make much more sense. Thanks for posting - found the original thread. It's still quite the sandbag at 12b if the crux is (presumably) V5/6, but that makes a LOT more sense than 11c. ;-)

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107213315