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In 22 hours I'll be on a plane to Joshua Tree. I'm as giddy as a little school girl. I can't stop bouncing. And I DON'T want to be at work today.

Oh yeah, any good bars / hang outs around there?

Also, I've heard I have to climb Walk on the Wild Side, any other great sport routes (not enough room to bring my trad rack)

better get your slab climbing groove on, you'll need it.

mia

Are you sure you don't have room to bring the rack? There are tons of great crack climbs at Joshua Tree. As for "sport", Mia is right - the "sport" there is pretty slabby to vertical, but with great friction. Try Loose Lady for starters - it is pretty classic.

I'll try to fit some trad gear in my pack, but it's already busting at the seams... also, I'm taking a class out there that teaches trad placement, anchoring systems, etc so I will get a few days of trad in. Here's the classes I'm taking:


INTERMEDIATE TWO
This class focuses on anchoring fundamentals - how to use chocks and camming devices to rig toprope and belay anchors. After a lecture on equipment characteristics and uses you'll be introduced to anchoring principals and equalization methods. Then you will practice assembling and equalizing a variety of anchor systems, with critique from your guide. You'll also work on refining climbing technique, with an emphasis on crack climbing skills.

INTERMEDIATE THREE
This class focuses on leading fundamentals. You'll learn what it takes to become a competent leader: confidence in technique, and ability to place reliable protection and sound anchors. After more time is spent on the rock improving technique, you'll practice placement and removal of all the various state-of-the-art protection devices, with pointers from your guide. Next, under close supervision, and top-rope protection, you will execute a simulated lead climb. Placing gear on the lead, use of slings to reduce rope drag, establishing belay anchors, and basic self-rescue methods are among the topics covered. This class is an essential step toward climbing on your own.

Monday and Tuesday include more advanced lead climbing skills, managing multi-pitch belay anchors and stances, and basic direct aid climbing skills.

Climbing the sport there will definitely make you appreciate the Red!

Definitely get on Gunsmoke! It's a kick ass boulder problem that will work you like a route. Tons of people always there so you can borrow a pad easily. Download this guide if you haven't already: http://www.drtopo.com/califo/joshuatree.html

Here's my scoop on the food scene there:
There are some cool eating places in Joshus Tree...a great Thai place (Royal Siam) and a coffee house and hip sandwich joint (Crossroads...never ate there). There's also a really good Mexican restaurant (there are so many and this we found to be the best one) in Twentynine Palms called Edchada's. There's one in Joshua Tree but the one in 29 is much, much better. Our favorite eating place turned out to be the Rib Co. Don't go to the one in 29 Palms! The one in Yucca is awesome and you can eat a lot of good food (grilled chicken, good salads) in large portions quite economically. If you go around happy hour they even have free food like pasta salad, bread, and veggies.

Artsay wrote:Climbing the sport there will definitely make you appreciate the Red!

How do you mean, Artsay?

So whose trad gear will you use for these classes?

Bolts don't always equal sport climbing

Yasmeen - The routes at the Red are so well bolted and, since so many routes are vert to steep, the falls aren't usually an issue. Out there, the runouts can be way long and super scary (pendulums). Not much steep stuff either. Plus, the rock is so much different than here....you really have to trust your feet to smear on something that doesn't look like anything but maybe a teeny tiny crystal, if that. The Red seems like an indoor climbing gym compared to J-Tree....in my opinion, of course.