RRC Archives

Has anyone climbed "Excalibur" and could shed some light? Is the crux directly above the belay anchors on the third pitch and would a fall off the crux result in a huge fall factor on the rope/belay station? I heard the crux has no pro off the second belay and consists of insecure stemming.

I think the anchor is a broadsword embedded in the rock. please forgive me it's the caffeine again

Oh wow I was just promoted to an LW.

Excalibur is an awesome route, and the crux is toward the top, but is over pretty quick.

t bone has climbed this route before. I think this is the route he was explaining to me last night (right?). I think the first pitch is the crux? (10d?) The next two pitches are easy trad. On the second or third pitch there is only one placement for gear and you have to do this grab at the knees undercling thingy...

Anyhow, there is a pic of t bone on Excalibur, it is in the trad section of the photo album.

Watch out for the belay, someone pulled out the anchor, a guy named Arthur I think?

2nd pitch is the crux 10b or so. the gear was allright. the last pitch is 5.5 gear is little funky. otherwise it is a great route. there is a lone bolt in the middle of the route. It is worthless, i did not even use it. use your gear and do hanging belay.1st pitch is 5.8.The view and the top out are stellar.

Thanks for the beta. Sounds like I've got my next adventure climb chosen.

Huh? I can't find anything in the online guidebook - is this just some sort of delayed April 1st thing?

It's in the guidbook. Which pitch gets the R? sounds like a cool route.I would love to follow it.