Crack Training

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
absolutsugarsmurf
Posts: 96
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 1:03 am

Crack Training

Post by absolutsugarsmurf »

I just spent a few days in Indian Creek which was just enough time to realize how bad I am at sustained wide-fingers and thin-hands climbing. One or two moves of ratchets/stacks, no problem, but 120 feet of 5.10- green Camalots? No way!

What routes in the Red are the most splitter finger/off-finger/off-hands/thin hands for training these techniques? Let's make a list for future generations! Since technique is body size dependent, the routes should probably be listed by crack size. So, what are your favorite cracks for training locks/ratchets/finger-stacks/thin-hands?

Blue Camalot (0.3):
Gray Camalot( 0.4):
Purple Camalot (0.5):
Green Camalot (0.75):
monty4355
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 11:24 pm

Re: Crack Training

Post by monty4355 »

Up swift creek without a paddle.

Although supposedly those with small hands can handjam it.

I hate this size crack. Probably because I suck at it.
nemanji
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2012 1:58 am

Re: Crack Training

Post by nemanji »

Big Money at Pebble Beach could be considered Up Swift Creek's sister climb. Same deal, just a little less sustained and better feet. Thin hands fo days. Or like 60 ft
whoneedsfeet
Posts: 346
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:40 pm

Re: Crack Training

Post by whoneedsfeet »

Start with the lower end drugs. Ie Molly and dmt, slowly work your way up to the local favorite of meth or oxy pills. After a stint or two in rehab or an OD you'll be more than ready to enter the world of tweaking. On the plus side you will prob lose a lot of weight and will prob climb stinger.
Skipping cruxes is a way of life.
Post Reply