RRC Archives

why the fuck are you leaving ropes up?!??? spent 7 days in the red .. i've never saw a bigger
group of pussies. Are you leaving it up to announce you lead a route ? no one cares that you lead "Eureka" ..
are you leaving it up to top rope it later ? how much later? why would you top rope it after a lead ? why
would you be so bold to tie up a route so others wont get on it ? why do you think anyone would want
to climb on your draws? seriously WTF are you thinking ?

And trad gear placed? I get to the base of "whiteout" some asshole has trad gear plugged.. why would you leave your gear?
it's the best 5.8 in the area .. do you think no one will want to get on it on a saturday ? OH you left
your gear in so your buddy could lead it .. do you really want your buddy leading on your poorly placed
gear ? what if he/she falls and your gear blows .. do you want he/her injury/death on your shoulders ?
and again .. no one gives a shit about your 5.8 lead ..

if you are climbing where other people are in view and your climb has a star .. chances are
someone wants to LEAD it .. lead .. the goal of climbing. you can do your top roping in the gym...
people climb outside to lead.

it seems like the new generation needs trophies..
trophy words .. trophy phases .. ya all need a little pat on the back. " i onsighted that !" you cant onsight
on top rope .. you cant onsight on top rope especially after sitting on the rope to take off your miguels
hoodie at the crux. ONSIGHT IS A CLEAN LEAD WITH NO PRE PLACED GEAR. no draws .. no trad gear
and sure as hell no fucking toprope. You dont deserve "onsight" you have to earn that shit.

Please stop treating outdoor climbing like a gym .. pull your ropes .. pick up your gear.. be humble and most of all
STFU with your trophy words.

"Please stop treating outdoor climbing like a gym .. pull your ropes .. pick up your gear.. be humble". I agree with you. Maybe not in such harsh words, but i definitely agree.

Agreed, but If you want to reach the New School Climbers, you might want to take a picture of your post and spray it on Instaspam, Farcebook, Snapcrack, and Tweeter.

hilarious. (tweaker?)

I take it you fulfilled your role as an experienced mentor by kindly approaching these uneducated and inexperienced climbers to help them understand the importance of respecting other climbers at the crag and generally appropriate ethics. If so, thank you for your service. They will look back fondly on your leadership and will surely continue to pass on the valuable wisdom to future generations! If not, at least they have this inflammatory PSA to guide them

Gee... someone is really pissed.

Are you really so out of touch with the world that you do not know that new climbers travel in packs, usually consisting of only 1 or two leaders, barely capable of dogging to the top of the route, and a whole bunch of people who want to top-rope the same climb afterwards, but have no ability to lead it? And that the said pack of new climbers will be as slow and inefficient as humanly possible?

Your options are:

1) do not go to a crag that has a 5-star 5.6 on a Saturday in high season, for god's sake! You've been here for a week? Why didn't you go on Wednesday?

2) approach the group politely, if the rope is hanging untended, and ask to quickly run up the route. Promise to hang their rope back if they hesitate (but they might say that it's O.K., someone will lead it again). Continue the conversation by mentioning that it is considered polite not to leave ropes hanging on popular routes at a busy crag.

3) pull the rope and throw a tantrum. Maybe pee on the rope to make your point, and throw their draws into the tree. And stomp on their packs, maybe?

4) post a rant online, where these climbers will never see it, butr it would provide entertainment for people who already know.


1 and 2 are more productive, but 3 and 4 certainly provide better entertainment. So if you plan on doing 3, please post in advance, I might overcome my aversion for a day and stop at Practice wall to observe and cheer.

GaryO wrote:I take it you fulfilled your role as an experienced mentor by kindly approaching these uneducated and inexperienced climbers to help them understand the importance of respecting other climbers at the crag and generally appropriate ethics. If so, thank you for your service. They will look back fondly on your leadership and will surely continue to pass on the valuable wisdom to future generations! If not, at least they have this inflammatory PSA to guide them

I have not voiced my issues .. yet .. but i will. things need to change ..

lena_chita wrote:Gee... someone is really pissed.

Are you really so out of touch with the world that you do not know that new climbers travel in packs, usually consisting of only 1 or two leaders, barely capable of dogging to the top of the route, and a whole bunch of people who want to top-rope the same climb afterwards, but have no ability to lead it? And that the said pack of new climbers will be as slow and inefficient as humanly possible?

Your options are:

1) do not go to a crag that has a 5-star 5.6 on a Saturday in high season, for god's sake! You've been here for a week? Why didn't you go on Wednesday?

2) approach the group politely, if the rope is hanging untended, and ask to quickly run up the route. Promise to hang their rope back if they hesitate (but they might say that it's O.K., someone will lead it again).

3) pull the rope and throw a tantrum. Maybe pee on the rope to make your point, and throw their draws into the tree. And stomp on their packs, maybe?

4) post a rant online, where these climbers will never see it, butr it would provide entertainment for people who already know.


1 and 2 are more productive, but 3 and 4 certainly provide better entertainment. So if you plan on doing 3, please post in advance, I might overcome my aversion for a day and stop at Practice wall to observe and cheer.

I am pissed .. 1) the only day it didn't happen was on tuesday 2) "Continue the conversation by mentioning that it is considered polite not to leave ropes hanging on popular routes at a busy crag." i may do this . 3) would be more fun.. 4) done.

not so out of touch .. i've watched the progression to complete "pussy-ness". it's great people are leaving the chalk dust filled gyms .. they just need to learn they are not the only climbers outside.
option 5) climb 5.9(trad) and up..those routs are usually vacant.

Who are all you people? "Will", "GaryO"?

JB, can we have a little moderation? We need to rein in the foul language and houliganism on this BBS! 512OW and SCIN cause enough trouble without letting these youngsters get fired up.

Haha! There was a day it was Sunshine and Moonbeam were the gumball magnets. Before that it was Fortress Wall. I started climbing in '94 and gym rats were a problem even then. And there was no internets forum to rant on. You just had to sit in a rhodo thicket and stew.

The problems were all the same. I hated climbing on the weekend as I tried to move up through the grades. Never failed, whatever route I was aiming at there would be a group of bros and their...ladyfriends all strung up with nylon.

We spent an hour trying to get on Face Up once and a group was leisurely hogging it. Finally I was annoyed enough I stopped a guy as he was untying and getting ready to walk around to dog Brother Stair. Can we cut in, I implored.

"Well, I'm kinda saving it for my wife to give it a try," he said unapologetically.

About that time the missus came lumbering around the corner from the direction of To Defy. All 300 pounds of her, barely contained in a narrow band of spandex 'round her bossums and lycra stretched to its limit of modesty.

I shoved my draws in my pack and stormed off. Probably went back to town and rented a movie.

The next time I went back to Left Flank it was a group of rednecks leading on a static rope and some eastern European folks who didn't know how to clean anchors.

The next time I met a nice couple from Indy who were taking their spanking new rope out of the plastic at the base of Bro Stair. They didn't know how to clean anchors either.

And back then seemed every other week some gumball was breaking an ankle on Maypop. Never understood that. You can top rope it from Mr Bungle.

Finally I gave up and became a trad climber.

oddly I'm not that young .. just immature .. i started climbing in '96 ... still have rigid cams on my rack .. haha
i've always been a trad climber .. hated (still hate) sport climbing but i respect the grades they are putting up.

the problem is .. the top roper gym gumbies are starting to impose there 'style" on the trad routes. Its just rude..
this attitude, behavior or whatever we call it would not go un-confronted anywhere else in society .. but when
it's climbing we are just supposed to let it go? No way .. if you are an asshole ..your mom wont tell you.. it's up
to society to tell you. I'm starting a movement ! lets tell rude asshole climbers that they are rude assholes.. why
not?

Since we're complaining I've witnessed one and heard of another climber on red tagged projects. The one I encountered had no explanation as to why they were doing it.