Adv - Harder, Better, Faster – Dan Brayack
This clinic will be an informative discussion about training using the methods developed by the Anderson brothers in their book, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual. The target audience for this is any intermediate to advanced climber who has been climbing for 2+ years (or considers themselves a very serious climber.) 1. Why train for climbing? 2. What training program is right for me? 3. What intensity is appropriate for my level of fitness? 4. What is Phased Training and How do I perform the following training exercises: a. Endurance (ARC Training) b. Hangboarding (Strength) c. Campusing (Power) d. 4x4s / LBC (Power Endurance) --- Dan Brayack has been climbing and training for climbing for 16 years. Using the Rock Climber's Training Manual, he has went from very seriously not climbing 5.12- to very seriously not climbing mid range 5.13. Dan has a blog that has been chronicling his training and his accomplishments at:
http://brayackmedia.blogspot.com/ and
http://blog.trango.com/.
All - Get Out of a Jam – Karsten Delap
What do you do when you’re cleaning a route and your locking biner gets stuck and you cannot seem to get it open? What do you do when a bit of hair gets stuck in your rappel device? How do you get back on the rock when your feet are dangling in space and you cant quite reach the roof – and your partner is belaying from above? Learn some quick fix techniques for some of the most annoying and troublesome problems that arise in climbing. --- Karsten Delap has climbed many 17,000ft peaks and has climbed all over the world for work and play. He spends the spring working in the High Sierra and the rest of the year traveling the world working for Fox Mountain Guides heading up their alpine programs. He successfully completed the rock guide program in 2009 becoming the Southeast’s second AMGA Certified Rock Guide. In 2013, he gained the AMGA Alpine Guide Certification and was the first guide in the Southeast to achieve this certification. He has gotten himself and his clients out of countless jams and is the perfect instructor to teach you how!
Beg - Footwork and Technique – TBD
Learn what it takes to achieve fluid movement to climb gracefully. Study the art of working with your feet effectively. Develop proper foot technique for slab climbing, edging, and crack climbing.
Beg - Learn to Lead – Whitney Boland
Tired of the rope snagging on your partner's draws as you unclip while following him/her up a line? Take your climbing skills to the next level and learn how to lead sport routes! Time will also be dedicated to cleaning anchors. --- Whitney has moved all over the country and traveled through the US, Canada, Mexico and Europe bouldering, sport climbing and trad climbing. It is her lifeblood. It fuels her, as crazy as that sounds. Whitney climbs for the movement, the challenge, the constant discovery.
Beg/Int - Intro to Trad – Shingo Ohkawa
Want to avoid the crowds at the Red on gorgeous Fall days? There are almost as many trad/mixed routes as sport routes here - learn to lead them! This course gives you the skills to start working through safely leading a traditional climb. --- Shingo is a lifer, a prodigal dirt-bag … he is, however, completely obsessed with exploring the high places of the world; opening new routes in ranges near and far, from the Wasatch to the Karakoram. No place is too far, for the world's still a big place and he’s got no time to lose!
Beg/Int - Multipitch Efficiency – Brittany Griffith
This is your chance to learn muti-pitch systems with a focus on equipment, route-finding, belaying, safety, and speed. Multi-pitch systems can be incredibly complex, and the best way to refine your skills is to examine each part of the system by itself. In this course, we will do just this: look at every element of your system and help you to make it better. On this course, we do not climb a multi-pitch route, but use a ground school to practice the specific systems required to climb a multi-pitch route effectively. Once you have completed this course, you will be able to take the skills learned in this setting and apply them to long multi-pitch climbs. --- Brittany Griffith has more than 15 years climbing experience. She’s led 5.13 sport and traditional routes and vows someday to lead the gym’s 5.11c purple route! She obsesses over her garden and vacuuming and holds a black belt in Tae Kwon Do. She’s climbed in Oman, Morocco, and Russia.
Int - Sport and Redpointing – Kevin Wilkinson and Alli Rainey
Climbing 5.9 and wanting to improve? This clinic will teach you how to move beyond the plateau. This course will explain the art of choosing a project, how to train for the project, how to safely catch a fall, and more! --- Alli is a certified person. She is a certified personal trainer, registered yoga teacher, and a personal climbing coach and trainer, as well as a published professional writer. She started climbing in the early 90’s, started training to climb in the late 2000s, and became a climbing coach in 2008. Kevin tried every sport and liked them all … but thought climbing was the most fun! So he just kept doing it and has been doing little else since 1998! He has bolted countless new rotes and spends much of his time at Ten Sleep, Wyoming.
Int - Warrior's Way – Arno Ilgner
Being effective in climbing requires us to understand the consequences of our decisions and actions. In climbing the main consequence is falling. By understanding how to fall we diminish the chance of injury and allow us to focus attention effectively on climbing. Target student: This clinic is not for beginners. You must have at least 6 months of continuous climbing experience and know the basics knots, belaying, and be able to climb 5.9 without falling/hanging. We’ll do some discussion but the clinic will consist mostly of falling exercises. Equipment Needed: Harness, shoes, belay device, helmet. Plus draws and a rope (if you have them). --- Arno Ilgner distinguished himself as a pioneering rock climber in the 1970s and ‘80s, when the top climbs were bold and dangerous first ascents. These personal exploits are the foundation for Ilgner’s unique physical and mental training program–The Warrior’s Way®
