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An Onsight is...

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 3:54 pm
by andy_lemon
Just to see if there is a fixed definition on Onsight or it is a difference in ethics.

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 4:05 pm
by captain static
From virtuallinks.com:
On-sight - This is the act of climbing a specific route on the first try and with NO prior beta or information of any kind. Even watching another climber go up the route, nullifies an on-sight.

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 4:06 pm
by pigsteak
andy, I have even heard that for a pure onsight, you can not know the grade even....guess knowing the grade is "previous knowledge"...

so, no draws hanging, no beta, no route grade...in fact, no sticky ruubber...

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 4:07 pm
by tsparks
I agree with option A except for knowing the grade. If that was the "accepted" definition of an onsight then it would be almost impossible to ever onisight something. I think it is very unusual for any of us to get on a route without at least some idea what the grade is.

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 4:10 pm
by GWG
I have called a climb an "On Site" climb when I have done it without falls, without seeing anyone on it or without information about it. I will know the grade and the number of bolts in order to be sure I've got enough draws.

When you mention "beta" in the survey, does this include hints that may be found in a guide book such as comments like "be sure to stay left" or does it refer to just grade, height, and number of bolts?

GWG

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 4:15 pm
by SCIN
I think that knowledge of grade, number of bolts, etc. has been pretty well accepted here at the red as not interfering with an onsite. Just like prehung draws have been accepted here as a redpoint.

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 4:19 pm
by andy_lemon
SCIN wrote:I think that knowledge of grade, number of bolts, etc. has been pretty well accepted here at the red as not interfering with an onsite. Just like prehung draws have been accepted here as a redpoint.
prehung draws a redpoint? I thought we coined up a new phrase to use for that... Pinkpoint.

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 4:23 pm
by pigsteak
lmao...seriously andy?
dude, pink point WAS the term used when sport climbing was in its infancy..it went out with lycra...and now redpoint is virtually any form you want AFTER your first burn of sending a route clean...stick clipping bolts, preplacing draws, knee bars, cheater stones, flaming beta...its all good...

pink point was a great term, because hanging the draws is part of the challenge which ups the struggle...but here we are, so we live with it...

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 4:24 pm
by air canada
I think pinkpoint has been around just about as long as redpoint.
Most sport areas I've been to will give you the redpint on preplaced draws.

Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 4:25 pm
by andy_lemon
Cool, didn't know that.