RRC Archives

My wife and I climbed at the gorge during the mid 1990s... then we had kids. Now we are ready to introduce our kids to the Red River Gorge. We are planning to climb on Saturday and Sunday August 9th and 10th. This afternoon I pulled out the rubbermaid tote labelled "Rock Climbing Gear" to take inventory. The box has maybe been opened 2 or 3 times in 13 years. Several of my kids had no idea we had all this cool gear. Sadly, I found a 13 year old climbing rope that was never used and will be replaced. Then I found a mess of climbing shoes, harnesses, webbing, slings and quickdraws, ext... I feel I have enough gear. However, 7 quickdraws doesn't seem enough. On average, how many quickdraws will be good to have on hand for some of the easier faces?

I have a lot to relearn.

40

12 quIckdraws will get you up 95% of the climbs unless you go to muir then you will need 40

Thank you very much. I found the online climbing guide and saw how the number of bolts are listed on each sport climb. It was fun for my wife and I to reminisce about the climbs we remembered. It looks like most the 5.9s we thought our kids may like were 5 bolts. However, I may still order a couple more just in case.

I would recommend 10, probably won't need any more than that, I would for sure take more than 7.

Eident, Andrew's right-on. You'll have plenty to leave as Booty. Where did you get the idea that your 13 yr. old rope is not usable ? Brand new and stored out of sunlight, do ropes breakdown by themselves ? Maybe I'm missing something. I am getting old and can't remember everything. Climb-Safe.

@Bruisebrother thanks for your reply. I had the same thought as you. The rope is still coiled as it came from the factory. How could it deteriorate? However, I googled "old never used climbing rope" and read enough opinions that the rope should be replaced to cause me doubt. I'd rather spend the money on a new rope for the piece of mind. The rope maybe fine. However, I'd be miserable if someone was injured knowing I caused the accident by deciding to use an old rope.

Yet, on second thought. You've caused me possibly reconsider. Would it hurt to use it for light climbers on easy climbs? Would I notice that there was a problem before it was too late? It should would be nice not to spend money a new rope when I have a new rope.

Just curious, if you are worried about using a 13 year old nylon rope, why are you okay with 13 year old nylon dogbones on your quickdraws? Just saying.

@JonnyC Good point. And the dogbones are used, older than the rope, and have falls on them. I guess knowing that as the climb progresses, the quickdraws are increasingly more redundant. However, there is only one rope. BTW - I found this pdf regarding old ropes. It helped relieve my worry. http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/file ... _Ropes.pdf

I also have read even more forum posts and articles regarding nylon climbing ropes. The more I read, the more I realize that use, chemicals and UV degrade rope. And that as long as the rope is stored in a dark and dry location, it should have long shelf life. Thanks to this thread, I think I'm safe using my well kept rope for many years to come. @Bruisebrother thanks for asking the question regarding the rope. It has saved me some money.

eident wrote:@JonnyC Good point. And the dogbones are used, older than the rope, and have falls on them. I guess knowing that as the climb progresses, the quickdraws are increasingly more redundant. However, there is only one rope. BTW - I found this pdf regarding old ropes. It helped relieve my worry. http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/file ... _Ropes.pdf

Think about it -- on a route with only 5 quickdraws, especially something closely bolted, like most 5.9s, you are in groundfall territory if a quickdraw breaks on you, pretty much all the way to the anchors.

On an 80ft route with 9 bolts, I had a quickdraw break on bolt 8. I was ~15 feet of the ground when I stopped. Just saying.

Dogbones are cheap.