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Hey guys,
new to the forum. I've climbed on and off at the Red for a while. I'm visiting for a few days at the end of June/beginning of July and looking to get on some low-mid 12s. I know Kentucky is hot as shit in the summer so I'm looking for my best options for shade. Also of consideration: my little sister, a 5.9-10 climber will be with me so if possible, things in her wheelhouse would be awesome, i.e. Darkside probably isn't an option. My preference is for bouldery climbs as opposed to super endurance, and I love pockets.

I was thinking of Left Flank (sex farm, etc) and Military (5.12 wall), but I'm not sure how the sun is, and I hopped on Tacit a while back - will that and Blood Bath be solid options around then? In that case I could take her to drive by to warm up and cross through to Bob to project. Other recommendations are much appreciated


Thanks all!

Darkside has a very nice 9 and 10a. they're on the shorter side but I remember hiking all that way just to do them and had a nice time with them shadygrove/playgound make a nice combo - playground gets afternoon shade. shire is morning shade (get there super early to avoid gumby rush if you go on a weekend) and you can move to something harder in the afternoon. driveby is afternoon shade.

The Zoo... It has a lot in your range, and some in the sisters range. Make sure you check out some of the new stuff to the skiers left. Good luck with the humidity and heat!

ynp1 wrote:The Zoo... It has a lot in your range, and some in the sisters range. Make sure you check out some of the new stuff to the left. Good luck with the humidity and heat!

I think the new stuff is to the right as you're facing the cliff - use the online guide because it's not in the printed one.

Coal Bank holler can be good if you follow shade... Dark Side/Bright Side/Gold Coast in the morning, Crossroads/Solar Collector in the afternoon

Thanks for the tips so far guys. Any opinions on whether Military and Left Flank will be any good then? Otherwise, I'm thinking the Dark Side --> Solar Collector option both days sounds fun.

ynp1 wrote:The Zoo... It has a lot in your range, and some in the sisters range. Make sure you check out some of the new stuff to the left. Good luck with the humidity and heat!

I've climbed some at the Zoo and I'm worried about majorly poison ivy approach. Most of the PMRP approaches don't seem as ivy-ridden. But yeah, I really want to get on Scar Tissue and finish off Hippocrite

Military/Left Flank are not good options in the Summer. Check the printed guidebook if you need to know when a cliff is in sun.

best I can recall the 12 wall at military stays mostly shaded, I've not been there in a while so maybe the tree line has moved even further away from the base. it can be pretty awful though with the black/deer flies-

Military is mostly shady. Left Flank is not a good choice except for Stunning and Sex Farm. The biting flies etc. will definitely be gnarly.