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Hi

I have not lived in Kentucky for twenty years but am returning next weekend from Colorado to climb the Red and I am looking for any beta about good routes sport or trad. I usually climb 5.10-5.11.

Thanks

Oompa and Loompa at Chocolate Factory are both awesome. I really like brown eyed girl and baby blue eyes at Chica Bonita as well as yellow brick road at Emerald city, but those are all slabs, at least by Red River Gorge standards. Bruise Brothers left side has a bunch of quality 10s all next to each other, but the area sees a lot of traffic.

There's tons of stuff. For sport in that range I think Drive-By is best. For trad, Long Wall. But there are lots of places. Use the advanced search options on the online guidebook here. Have fun.