RRC Archives

Locking beeners. I currently use DMM Lynx screw gate. 14$ cdn. I need to get about 6 more lockers for anchors etc and the Lucky's are 8$ cdn. The Lucky's have a larger gate opening which is nice for busy anchors. The KN ratings are basically equal so....is Brand name such a big deal?

Yes, I am a gear-whore. North Face, Prana, Petzl, I love em. But, I'm a little low on bling bling right now.

Can anyone give me a good reason NOT to buy the Lucky's?

lucky's are pretty good, metolius used them if that makes any difference. Don't know how they hold up over time, but they have nice smooth gate action.

Over time is one concern, but if I get 2 rock and 2 ice seasons with them, I'll be okay. By then I'll have some more $$ to invest (I hope)

I find Ice climbing hard on my lockers. They freeze and then I have to blow on them with hot breath to open them (pls dont stick your lips to them.....it sucks) and then the condensation just freezes again, and over and over again.

Brand wise, I'm a fan of Black Diamond becuase I'm confident that they have good engineers and really serious quality control people and proceedures. All that stuff costs money, of course.

In terms of reasons NOT to buy Lucky - do you have confidence that they have high quality control standards?

I guess I'm not sure. I haven't actually researced that. I suppose I've taken that for granted. Not a smart move when purchasing climbing equipement. But...also why we use 4 lockers to set a 2bolt top rope anchor.

Do you know where I may find information on that?

I'm kind of partial to the Booty brand. Booty tests each biner under real climbing conditions and then gives them away for free.

but....booty doesn't tell you if the bail out is there because it was dropped 150ft on granite.

What's wrong with dropped gear?

I do not give my booty away for free!!!!!!!!

That may not be your intent but all it takes is a few unattentive moments and someone will come by and snatch that shit up.