RRC Archives

I read climbing accident reports when they pop up on various websites, so I can learn from other's mistakes. I'm sure I (and all of us) occasionally make a mistake, but even when we don't catch and correct, most of the time it doesn't result in an accident - depriving us of 1) injury/death and 2) the opportunity to learn from our mistakes. So, here is your chance to give others the chance to learn from your accidents/serious mistakes, or those of others you have witnessed.

Go.

I'll go first: "The Great Slide"

Group of about eight in an alpine setting, steep snow slope, descending on a fixed line, attached via prussic. A friend's footing slipped. Her hand was above her prussic, sliding it downwards, and she gripped the rope to try to stop herself, resulting in a continuous and accelerating slide. I and a few others yelled "Let go of the rope", which she eventually did, after sliding about 60 feet at a pretty good clip. Crampons + ice axe + accelerating slide made it not an ideal situation, but it caused no injuries and at the end of the day was just a learning experience.

Takeaway: stress to inexperienced climbers to let go of the rope above the friction knot in case of a fall, and keep in mind they may forget.

Why didn't someone notice this problem before it happened?
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/12 ... ectType=35

I was thinking the same thing. Worth the time and effort to train your climbing partners in proper use of gear before you trust your (and their) life to it.

Preventable accident happened yesterday...

My dad and I wanted to go bolting in a new super secret mega turbo crag, but we were driving the MINI and needed 4x4. Our only option was to call Jimmy and Scott and pretend, once again, that we are actually friends. Of course they agreed, because they are desperate for friends, and the drove us where we needed to go. We tried to ditch them after we got to where we wanted to go but they just couldn't get the hint. At least we got them to cut a trail for us. They spent all day talking about how hot it was and how great this wall they found was. (pile by the way) The kept going around the corner and doing things where I couldn't see, but the noises were disturbing. After the day was over they tricked us into checking out this "cool" spot, and attempted to get us lost in the woods. They were anticipating that we would give up or pass out from the heat and hiking, but they underestimated my dad's and my superior conditioning. Scott and Jimmy finally realized that they were not going to have their way with us and they took us back to our car. It was a horrible mistake.

This was preventable by some better judgement and realizing that it is better to walk further than to ask some sketchy people to drive you to your destination.

harhar...

Andrew wrote:Our only option was to call Jimmy and Scott and pretend, once again, that we are actually friends. Of course they agreed, because they are desperate for friends, and the drove us where we needed to go. We tried to ditch them after we got to where we wanted to go but they just couldn't get the hint.

I hate when that happens!!!