Top-Managed Belay Methods

[WDW4]

When you are on a route in the RRG, above the climber you are belaying, what method/device do you use, and what do you like about it? Let's just say the route is difficult enough the second may fall, and that the pitch doesn't have any major traverses or overhangs. Specify any variations and the particular method you use.

[Bruisebrother]

Be as Safe as possible, how ever you do it! Check out the prelim report of the accident at Acadia, Otter Cliff. June 16th posted on Gunks.com.

[stix]

every belay needs to be approached independently and being flexible is key to staying safe i think. if i'm at a belay with a couple nice bolts i almost always belay off the anchor with a reverso or atc guide and stack the rope over the rope running from my tie in knot to the anchor, though in the red you're usually just gonna toss it and rap any way. if i have a bomb anchor that is some ways back from the edge (usually a good tree) i often use a munter off the anchor i'll get as close to the edge as possible to try to see my climber.

[megmay]

take a stance

[KD]

gri gri is like a shotgun - you can't hardly miss with it.

[@@@]

Gri Gri + Munter

[clif]

i don't get it (why the device makes a difference), but i'd enjoy reading about anyone's thinking on the subject of munter v. clove v. overhand bight as an anchor modification?

[stix]

clif, i don't understand your question about clove v munter vs overhand on a bight. they all are different hitches or knots with different purposes and uses.

[clif]

it's not so much a question as an invitation to elaborate on the thinking behind the choices made, which i thought might dovetail with the op's survey....

for me, the overhand bight is so quick, secure and clean, though 'bulky' i use it a lot; however, the adjustability/equalization factor of the clove hitch is key. as a redirection i can see the munter's value, i guess?

[WDW4]

Clif, in the survey I was asking about belay (i.e. friction) devices/methods, where the "munter" option represents replacing a more typical belay device with a munter hitch on a HMS carabiner. Are you referring to using different knots/hitches to equalize or adjust the anchor?

If that is the case, I have only used the Overhand on a bight/8 on a bight and clove hitch (to connect to arms points of protection). I could see making the munter mule tieoff work, but don't see how it would provide any advantage (and would be super bulky). Maybe I'm misunderstanding you.