Mixed Routes

[Power2U]

Just wanted to do a poll and see what the general concensus was on mixed routes.

I have climbed a few of them in my time and some have been really cool ones while others have been stupid. I can never figure out why one would bolt a climb but leave one section where you need one piece placed in crack to protect on a route that otherwise has 10 bolts. On the other hand Face Up To That Crack is a good example of a mixed climb as is Hard Left.

[Wicked Tribe]

I think a route should have one bolt, none or be completely bolted. I hate routes that are sport routes minus one bolt. That's just stupid. And what's wrong with running it out to a single good bolt? Central Scrutinizer is a great example. If you fall before clipping the bolt you'll probably deck, but after you clip it the climbing is really safe. You know if you can make it to that bolt you'll be fine.

I am undecided about routes that have three bolts and finish on a crack. Or vice versa. If its a good route-sure. If its a squeeze job or someone just wanted to get another FA then leave it be. Someone else can lead it as R or X.

[tsparks]

I personally think that Face Up To That Crack is a perfect example of a route that should just be bolted. It is surrounded by sport routes, it only requires one piece (if you choose to protect that section), and it is only a 5.8, thus meaning that it will attract a lot of people that are looking for easier routes. If you fell before you clipped the next bolt, then you would be looking at a very long slab fall.

To me it would just make more sense to add a bolt and make it a totally safe route for everyone.

[climbhigh]

I have not been on many of the mixed routes at the Red. But have been on a few in Josh. Most of those started with a great crack and then moved to scary slab that offered no protection for 20-30 feet. So i think mixed climbs have there place, and can be really fun to do.The same thought process should be used with mixed routes as with regular sport routes. Think before you drill.

[Guest]

Forget, R or X. That's some b/s! I don't climb R or X routes. Only thing I care about is a safe fall! If it's 10 feet to the next bolt or 20. All I want is a well thought-out. Line that is well protected.

As for trad R and X. You get what you got. If you climb trad then you know the risks already. I don't do X routes in trad. Most R routes can be well protected by microcams now days anyway. So alot of times what used to be a R can be well protected. Case in point Black Death at the Nada tunnel. We used 9 cams on it, 3 of them were in the ceiling! Go Go Gadget Microcam!

[rhunt]

I think it depends on what kind of routes are around it. If there is a mixed route on a wall that is fully bolted then the mixed route should be fully bolted. A great example is 'pullin pockets' at roadside. That thing was a mixed route for years and years, now it is fully bolted and frees up a new line on a crowded cliff, which takes the pressure off the other routes around it. Seemed like everytime I would walk up to roadside it was a guessing game of 'will the bolt be missing from 'pullin pockets again'...glad that's over.

[Power2U]

A long time ago Face Up To That Crack did have three bolts along the crack... if you look closely next time you're on it you can see the holes where the bolts were. I actually lead it back when I was learning to climb and clipped all the bolts along the crack They have since been pulled and I think that it adds to the climb....my opinion of course.

[rhunt]

Yeah 'face up to that crack' is a great example of a climb that should have stayed a sport climb. I wonder how many gumbies got injuried after standing around all day waiting to get on 'mr bungle' then finally deciding to get on 'face up to that crack'(without any knowledge of placing gear) and falling before getting to the ledge?

[climbhigh]

I guess I never really considered face up to that crack to be mixed. We always just ran it out and be done with it. But I do see how a new leader could get in trouble on it. But I dont think a bolt should be placed where natural gear can be placed. Once you start bending the rules where does it stop. One of the first things a new leader should learn to do is scope the line before they get on it.

[air canada]

Its always seemed a little silly to me to insist on having climbs that are basically sport routes, with one piece required part way up. If you're on some trad climb where it becomes uprotectable, its a different story. Then it becomes the first ascensionists call on how it should be done.