That's the 5.10 I was looking for....

Post by **vic** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 12:06 am

As I start an intense training program to get back into it all, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction of climbs. Here's what I am looking for:
1. 5.10 climbs
2. Juggy (so that I can work forearms)
3. Secluded (away from the Sat and Sun crowd)
4. Clean fall routes (so that I don't break yet another ankle)
5. Long hikes are fine, but hopefully they will not be steep so that I won't have a soar recovering ankle by the time I get to the actual crag.
6. The longer the better

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 2:44 am

Arena, oh wait you can't go there.

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 3:01 am

Pocket Wall...oh wait that's closed too

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 4:03 am

cum in your lycra at the purple valley 10b ***. vertical and reachy. super safe falls.

pogue ethics 10b* a marginal b at best more like a 10a. mixed vertical and slabby. funky crux move. long route.no pump

cum in your lycra is the better of the two.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 4:10 am

Here's what the Crag Sloth had to say:

A.W.O.L. 5.10a *** (S) Roadside Crag Pockets 50 1990
Pocket Pussy 5.10d ** (S) Torrent Falls Pockets 50
To Defy the Laws of Tradition 5.10a ** (S) Left Flank Pockets 60 1992
Pulling Pockets 5.10d *** (S) Roadside Crag Pockets 50 1987
The Hook and the Pendulum 5.10b ** (S) Western Sky Bridge Ridge Pockets 40 1983
It's Alive 5.10d ** (S) Torrent Falls Pockets 55 2001
Family Value 5.10d * (S) Torrent Falls Pockets 55 2001
Dragonslayer 5.10d ** (S) Roadside Crag Pockets 50 1990
Reanimator 5.10b *** (S) Torrent Falls Pockets 55 2001
Poopie Head 5.10b ** (S) Torrent Falls Pockets 40 1995
Rest Assured 5.10a ** (S) Torrent Falls Pockets 60 2001

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 5:20 am

Rebel yell
Redneck Ways
Standing Ovation
Opening Act

Those are steep, pumpy, and have less crowds. When they are open to climbing.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 11:37 am

Good list Yasmeen, though you can throw out anything at Roadside and Left Flank. He wants to avoid the weekend crowd.

Vic, you might be SOL until our beloved Bald Nuts Fork/Southern Region reopens (please Lord, let it be soon!). Torrent should have enough to give you a workout though.

Mj

Post by **air canada** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 1:55 pm

If crowds are a concern you may want to try timing your day so you hit your climbs early, or late. Now through the fall the crowds are going to be there.

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 2:07 pm

Yeah..I was already to give you a list of good 5.10's but all the climbs I was thinking of are at crowded crags. You might have to try and climb during the week or suck it up and jump in with the crowds. Look at it this way, you'll get to meet new and interesting people who don't use this web page, aren't from Lexington and sometimes have no idea what the RRGCC is.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 2:26 pm

Yeah, but do we REALLY want to associate with those people?

Mj