Epic on Fox Fire

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Steve_BSU
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:52 pm

Epic on Fox Fire

Post by Steve_BSU »

On Saturday March 30, my friend and I tried climbing this route. We became so off route idk what we climbed. We did the first pitch fine. We then worked right on the traverse. After the traverse we went up what seemed 5.7 face climbing. We then traversed far right by mistake and came to a nice looking crack into a face climb. I led this pitch which felt 5.9 R. went up a thin hands-hands crack for about 20 feet to a ledge. then traversed far right, place a BD #4 cam in a horizontal. I then worked right up a small ramp that i placed a #2 cam in the crack that followed along the wall of the ramp. I then traversed about 10 feet right of the piece on face climbing, Then climbed 10 feet up and then 20 feet back left. I ended up on a ledge with some rhodos and a tree at the end of it. i then worked up a small gully like feature with a tree at the top of it. the gully was maybe 20 feet. The hiking trail was about 2 feet back from the edge where I topped out at. Has anyone done this before or was this an FA? Also what is the best tree to rap off the top of. we double rope rapped from a tree about 10 feet back from the edge. Came down to find out there was too much friction to pull the rope, had to climb back up the rope a bit to pull it for the next rap. Has anyone had this happen to them before? Also there is a sweet dihedral that looks finger to thin hands with the final moves going into the roof and then top out. there were small vines growing out at the bottom. Has this been climbed before? we are wanting to go back and clean the start to climb it. will it be an FA?
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Willy
Posts: 177
Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 8:49 pm

Re: Epic on Fox Fire

Post by Willy »

Sounded about right to me. The best tree to rap off is the one at the top
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der uber
Posts: 1044
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:42 am

Re: Epic on Fox Fire

Post by der uber »

Dave Hume did all that a long time ago.
Steve_BSU
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:52 pm

Re: Epic on Fox Fire

Post by Steve_BSU »

Willy wrote:Sounded about right to me. The best tree to rap off is the one at the top

sounded about right for the rap or for knowing the route?
Steve_BSU
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:52 pm

Re: Epic on Fox Fire

Post by Steve_BSU »

der uber wrote:Dave Hume did all that a long time ago.
Do you know what the diehedral goes out? My friend and I are wanting to clean the vines out and give a go at it
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Epic on Fox Fire

Post by dustonian »

I'm sure you are not the first person to go off-route on Foxfire. Next time consider just walking off Eagle Pt. Buttress instead of rapping without slings. It is a pleasant 5-10 minute walk, and pulling ropes wrapped directly around trees is really hard on them.
Cromper
Posts: 335
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 3:25 am

Re: Epic on Fox Fire

Post by Cromper »

Steve_BSU wrote:On Saturday March 30, my friend and I tried climbing this route. We became so off route idk what we climbed. We did the first pitch fine. We then worked right on the traverse. After the traverse we went up what seemed 5.7 face climbing. We then traversed far right by mistake and came to a nice looking crack into a face climb. I led this pitch which felt 5.9 R. went up a thin hands-hands crack for about 20 feet to a ledge. then traversed far right, place a BD #4 cam in a horizontal. I then worked right up a small ramp that i placed a #2 cam in the crack that followed along the wall of the ramp. I then traversed about 10 feet right of the piece on face climbing, Then climbed 10 feet up and then 20 feet back left. I ended up on a ledge with some rhodos and a tree at the end of it. i then worked up a small gully like feature with a tree at the top of it. the gully was maybe 20 feet. The hiking trail was about 2 feet back from the edge where I topped out at. Has anyone done this before or was this an FA? Also what is the best tree to rap off the top of. we double rope rapped from a tree about 10 feet back from the edge. Came down to find out there was too much friction to pull the rope, had to climb back up the rope a bit to pull it for the next rap. Has anyone had this happen to them before? Also there is a sweet dihedral that looks finger to thin hands with the final moves going into the roof and then top out. there were small vines growing out at the bottom. Has this been climbed before? we are wanting to go back and clean the start to climb it. will it be an FA?
Damn did you have a pen and paper to write all this down while y'all were climbing?
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Epic on Fox Fire

Post by dustonian »

The video will be out soon on DPM's "Stash"...
Syphur
Posts: 79
Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2009 2:22 am

Re: Epic on Fox Fire

Post by Syphur »

Sounds like you zigged when you should have zagged. Totally missed the BVD Traverse. Shoulda went left after pitch 2. Crawl the ledge around left and the rest woulda been obvious. Pitch 2 and 5 are the best ones.
Steve_BSU
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:52 pm

Re: Epic on Fox Fire

Post by Steve_BSU »

Syphur wrote:Sounds like you zigged when you should have zagged. Totally missed the BVD Traverse. Shoulda went left after pitch 2. Crawl the ledge around left and the rest woulda been obvious. Pitch 2 and 5 are the best ones.
yes i know i was off route and know where we went wrong. I'm trying to figure out what it was that I actually climbed
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