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When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 5:41 pm
by caribe
and what would it look like?
- Can it be done? That is to say, would such a route have protectable features and still be 5.15c?
I guess right now the trad grade ends at about 5.14c. Could a 5.15c trad grade be declared while leaving such a large gap between it and and the next hardest trad grade. If climbing is just climbing like a lot of people say, there should be no problem declaring this grade and leaving this gap.
- Trad been around longer than sport. Why is the upper end of the sport grade increasing so fast compared to trad? Aren't there enough mutants trying hard trad?
Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:18 pm
by Skeptic
I think 15c trad would invariably be R/X death...very steep learning curve
Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 1:33 am
by SCIN
If Alex Honnold climbed an existing 5.15c bolted route but skipped the bolts and stuck a small cam in a pocket along the way would that be 5.15c trad?
Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:09 am
by caribe
uh . . . yes. Course Honnold does not climb that hard, and certainly does not solo that hard. Point well taken though. I can see someone bouldering up 15 ft and plugging gear at natural spot and continuing another 10 ft and plugging gear in another. Perhaps it is possible to have a Proper Soul / Blean Bean story at 15c.
Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:19 am
by Spikeddem
You guys should definitely spend 10-15 pages first defining what "trad" is.
Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:23 am
by tbwilsonky
agreed. just a quick primer on this whole trad thing first, and THEN you fellas can get back to speculating on imaginary numerical difficulty.
Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:03 am
by caribe
Climb placing removable, sustainable protection in natural features on lead.
Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:49 am
by climb2core
"sustainable" protection? Fuckin' hippies (shaking head)...
Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:36 pm
by graniteclimber
Sure it exists. All you'd need is a v14 or whatever section above a crack.
Could there be a 15c crack? It's hard to imagine... maybe a long fingers roof?
Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:53 pm
by megmay
Caribe, that's just like wondering if one could grow a 14in penis - perhaps, some day the right amount of nutrition, genetics and suction devices could achieve that end, but who the hell cares? I'd never want to experience such a monstrosity; it sounds about as painful as a 15c crack.
Or perhpas one needs a 14in penis to climb a 15c crack. No, better yet would be a .5mm thick pecker. Would that constitute aid?