RRC Archives

1" webbing tied with a water knot VS. 6 or 7 mm cord tied with triple fisherman's knot???

Please don't tell me to send it back to the manufacturer to re-sling because that's not an option right now!!

scotch tape works best

Before sewn slings we used 1" webbing and a water knot. Leave plenty of tail and tighten the knot with full body weight bouncing. That's still probably your strongest option until you can get them re-sewn.

The webbing option will allow for a little stretch where the cord wont. Id go for the webbing

It doesn't make much difference... go with what you have the most of, or is the cheapest.

terrizzi wrote:The webbing option will allow for a little stretch where the cord wont. Id go for the webbing

Is cordalette static? If it is, then I'd go with the webbing 100%.

Yes more static then webbing. Webbing is pretty dynamic.

Have you ever tightened or walked a slackline?

When you're talking about only a few inches of material, stretch doesn't come into play. The reduction of force during a fall is attributed to a dynamic rope and a good belayer, not what type of material you sling your cams with. Many cam companies use spectra/dyneema on their cams, that's about as static as it gets.

Here is a cool article from BD thats discussing re-slinging your gear.
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en ... s-and-c3s/
The thought on surface area when loaded is particularly interesting. Ive herd chatter from techs from companies evaluating some serious downfalls from spectra/dyneema slings when drop tower tests are preformed. Mainly that while spectra/dyneema have a higher static strength when compared to tubular webbing its melting point is much lower, and when girth hitched or slung incorrectly (doubled alpine draws) the friction applied from just a couple falls can cause melting and failure of the spectra/dyneema. Apparently that is why the DMM Dragons have that nifty tail piece.

cliftongifford wrote:When you're talking about only a few inches of material, stretch doesn't come into play. The reduction of force during a fall is attributed to a dynamic rope and a good belayer, not what type of material you sling your cams with.

It's not about everyday use--it's about those rare occasions that we like to think we "control" for.

Imagine a factor 2 fall directly on a poorly equalized anchor--a tiny bit of stretch may be the difference between the whole thing blowing or holding. Even with a couple of inches, the amount of shock load can be much lower with a little stretch.