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It's a Wonderful Life @ Pistol Ridge

Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:23 pm
by rkowen01
Can anyone explain this route to me? From the ground, the route appears to go up to a ledge and then continue to the top where I can see a set of anchors. Is this a two-pitch route or do you climb all the way to the top set of anchors? This would appear to produce a lot of rope drag. Please clarify.

Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:38 pm
by overhung
I did it in one pitch. Don't recall too much drag. Maybe a little.

Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:49 pm
by Bruisebrother
01, the route goes to the top. There's even another set of anchors above the ones you can see on the top of Spinnacle! The rope drag is not as bad as it may appear. You can walk off that ledge to the left and down passing the start of Spinnacle. There's also a set of anchors about 10 feet left of the ones you can see so you can rap from the top to the ledge and walk off if you only have a 50m rope. hope this helps you. it's a great route lotsa exposure! for a 9 hence the 3 *** rating.

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 3:57 pm
by JR
It is not a two pitch route. You can climb to the anchors of your choice. It is no rules climbing. The top is not off limits.

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 5:16 pm
by vic
There are couple of variations for anchors. I clipped the first set of anchors on one occasion, but I also topped out past those first anchors on another occasion. To do this, climb the short 2 foot roof just above the first anchors and clip into the next set of anchors (they will magically appear as you climb).

There is yet a third set of anchors located on the very top of the plateau - but I recall having a hard time running my rope out of them on the rappel.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 12:26 am
by Bruisebrother
Vicy, you really been up there? You must be older than I! Your memory is lacking if you have been to the top!

Re: It's a Wonderful Life @ Pistol Ridge

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 1:08 am
by Steve
rkowen01 wrote:Can anyone explain this route to me?
I'm with you man. Three stars like Fox in Locks is three stars in the Johnny first edition if ya ask me. Nice line lots of anchors.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 11:42 am
by vic
BB: I have made 18 ascents on that thing... even barefooted once. I have also scrambled around the corner and to the top, and that's how I came across the 3 sets of anchors...

The first set is visible from the ground. The second set is about 8 feet higher, and almost straight up. The third set of eye-let anchors are located on the plateau (about 2 o'clock when looking at the first set of anchors - but cannot be missed).

When rapping from the 3rd set of anchors (from the very top of the plateau), you will need a 60 meter rope... or a very stretchy 50 meters since you will be about 3 feet short otherwise.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 5:02 pm
by kentuckysarah
I've always wanted to get on that route. Now I want to even more!

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 5:40 pm
by vic
I really like that route. The second part (not to be confused with another pitch) is so much fun. You are totally exposed on the arrete, and the sequence is so much fun. The bottom part is tricky if you are as short as I am (5.7 and 1/2) :cry: