RRC Archives

Anyone have any experience or insight on using this as a toprope self-belay device?

I don't.

While I realize you weren't asking for alternate devices - inmy opinion the best device for tope rope self belay is a Petzl Shunt.

Use two minis (or micros), preferably one held up with a chest sling and the other as a backup, and dull the teeth a bit with a file. A "toothless" main such as a Gibbs ascender/rescuecender or Ushba with a mini/microtraxion backup also works great. Petzl ASAP is a super cool device too and allows you to downclimb as needed, but it's a bit scary to "take" on.

For more info research Top Rope Soloing on Supertopo.com.
The real important thing is the overall system. The anchor, anchor location,
weight on bottom of rope, the self belay device used, and know how to
self rescue if you can not get to the anchor.
Practice

My set up is a Petzl micro cender with a micro as a back up.
Chest harness a big plus.

Say you are using a tree at the cliff top for a anchor. Build another
anchor below the cliff top.

PM me if you want.

Use them all the time.

Two mini-traxions
Chest harness/slings
DMM Master Carabiner for the top mini
steel biner for bottom mini
static rope/10.5
bomber anchor at top
weight bottom of rope with bag
daisy chain
prussiks
ipod

No overhanging routes, too much of a hassle.

Got the Micro yesterday, what do you think of this and if you would tweak it what would you do, the Micro Traxion with two lockers and a quickdraw sling at the belay loop and a Gibbs with a doubled over the shoulder sling off the chest harness. For running training laps on the few routes I can readily reach the top of to rig the anchors or create some, I assume weighting the rope makes for a more positive lock if falling?

serious question..you guys really go out and rope climb without a partner..in 20 plus years of climbing it has never entered my mind. id just go bouldering or to the gym.

serious question, me blah blah I blah blah,

Yeah, definitely weight the rope with the weight of your pack. Feeds MUCH smoother that way. I'd get a DMM Master Carabiner, or something like it, because ordinary pear shaped lockers allow the micro to get twisted along the spine of the biner and that's a really uncomfortable feeling. Also, I run a sling through my doubled, over the shoulder slings, and cinch the top micro up close, that way when you fall it only takes your weight, not really a fall at all (don't want any elongation in the system). The only tough part is finding routes accessible from the top, I usually just sling a tree, tie a knot. Don't forget the prussiks, I got myself in a real mess and wished I had them. Also, wear something tight, as a t-shirt can get caught in the teeth of the micro and that's also a hassle.

pigsteak wrote:serious question..you guys really go out and rope climb without a partner..in 20 plus years of climbing it has never entered my mind. id just go bouldering or to the gym.

It's just another option. Just never got into bouldering much. I will say climbing with a partner is MUCH easier.