RRC Archives

There seems to be a rash of mixed lines going up in the gorge, but not just a trad line with a single bolt or a sport line with a single cam placement. These are 50/50 lines with 3 or 4 bolts and then an equal amount of gear placements...

So who sold out, the trad climber or the sport climber? Or does it even matter because no one does these lines anyway?

Perhaps the obvious trad and sport lines have been taken at the established crags, leaving the ones that were a little of both that neither did whilst they were out claiming the "pure" lines?

I think that mixed lines that are more 50/50 ish make a lot more since than a sport line with a cam placement... if you only have to plug one piece of gear is it really worth not putting one more bolt it? I do however agree with having 1+ bolts on trad climbs that are unprotectable... personally I like mixed lines, but only if they are mixed because they needed to be

that is an ez one..the traddies sold out in the gorge years ago. they started drilling anchors and cleaning lines on rap. the purity was gone.

if a line has even a single bolt the entire thing should be bolted. read again: you put in steel anchors then dont pretend it i s still a trad line . u have arbitrarily decided where the climbin g ends before the top of the cliff. the "natural line" has now been abandoned.

You are right piggy, just like when the sport climbers sold-old to pre hung draws and still call it a send!