RRC Archives

So is it totally cool to "send" or "redpoint" a gear route with all the gear pre placed? If I recall, those dudes who were sending that hard roof crack in Utah 'sent" the route with all gear in situ....

if anyone dares to say "not cool", then please explain your hypocrisy with sending wiener sport routes while clipping permas....

is it really because most trad climbers can barely fight up an 11a sport route, so they contrive new rules to man up the tragedy of wasting hours in the woods on two dirty pitches per weekend?

please help..I have found myself climbing a bit too many gear routes recently, and I find it totally queer to always place those cams while redpointing. can one of the five traddies left in the gorge sort this out for me?

Those dudes came back and sent while placing gear, in Utah... Fact check brah!

Man, you are becoming the next LK Day, but cranky about trad climbing... Pretty sad, but at least it is not politics.

Those dudes went back a week later and sent while placing gear, after the community refused to acknowledge there original feat as a true ascent.

Sport and trad aren't the same. Similar, but different. (IMO)

I'm sure Dustin will set you straight...

ynp1 wrote:Those dudes came back and sent while placing gear, in Utah... Fact check brah!

jinx

Damn, Rj and I had the same thing to say! I was just about to write that Dustin will cover this topic well! And it is a slow pitch for him (and many others but i dont feel like dealing with you).

lame as this is, it's still a step up from that retarded baseball thread.

This is what the term pinkpoint is for.

IMO, sport climbing essentially boils climbing down to the movement, whereas gear climbing is focused on movement + protection. Therefore, IMO, "pinkpoint" is doesn't even apply to sport climbing, but is worth using for gear climbing. On the other hand, what's the difference is between pinkpointing a gear route and redpointing a sport climb is?

I agree with Pig that cleaning gear every attempt on a route to redpoint it rather than pinkpoint is a bit contrived feeling.

dustonian wrote:lame as this is, it's still a step up from that retarded baseball thread.

And again... +1

Trad has its history derived from multi pitch where you would be pulling gear as you go and thus not feel so contrived if you repeated the line by pulling and immediately replacing it at baficaly the same points. Seems to me the evolution should discern between single pitch sport trad and "classic" multi pitch trad.