RRC Archives

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2003 8:14 pm**

Hey everyone! I know this is not a "trad" climb, but I was wondering if anyone might have climbed "Major's Pinnacle" at Lumpy Wall? I know it has one bolt but didn't know what size pro I will need to have for the climb. Any tips on the climb are welcome as well.

THANKS!

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2003 8:18 pm**

The route is definitely a trad climb. You need the bolt, but you'll need a lot mor ethan that too.

Hand and fist sized gear for the first section, clip the bolt and then mossy slab to a cool arete that is protected by small to medium cams (or tri-cams) in horizontal placements as best I can remember.

It seems like I used a #1 or #2 Metolius TCU for the summit moves but you really don't need anything.

Best summit in the Red.

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2003 8:19 pm**

Go in the winter or late fall. It is much easier to find, and will be a better view. Also, the guide book directions are kinda hard to follow. The key is following the logging road until you hit two really big boulders on your left. Turn left here, and go down this logging road for a little bit, then follow a trail that branches off to the left and up hill. You will see major's on you left after a little while.

Never done the route though.

Wes

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2003 10:08 pm**

We went looking for it and did not find it. I think we didnt hike far enough.

Posted: **Sat Sep 13, 2003 12:03 am**

Where in the world is this crag at?

Posted: **Sat Sep 13, 2003 11:46 am**

Wes wrote: The key is following the logging road until you hit two really big boulders on your left. Turn left here, and go down this logging road for a little bit, then follow a trail that branches off to the left and up hill. You will see major's on you left after a little while.
Wes

Follow the logging road and immediately after passing between the two boulders head uphill to the left, keep bearing to the left and taking the higher road until you see a pit cave on your left (shouldn't be very far) then head straight up the hill toward the pinnacle.

WARNING!!!
Onsight spoiler follows: The route is on the same side as the approach. It follows a sectioned right angling crack system to a ledge on the left on the face. That's where the bolt is. Its very hard to see from the ground but its there. After clipping the bolt step left, make a 5.8 slab move into lichenous territory and edge to the arete ASAP. The moves are fairly short and the arete is much easier in difficulty. Follow the arete to the tree ledge taking care with some potentially softer rock. 2nd pitch: move the belay left to an obvious notch in the summit megalith. Its protected by a single TCU if my memory serves me and isn't too hard at all. You may have to downclimb it (belaying uncomfortable member of the climbing party) to get down to the tree ledge to rappel near the arete.

The bolt is there and the route did seem 5.8.

Posted: **Sat Sep 13, 2003 12:05 pm**

Wicked Tribe wrote: Hand and fist sized gear for the first section, clip the bolt and then mossy slab to a cool arete that is protected by small to medium cams (or tri-cams) in horizontal placements as best I can remember.

It seems like I used a #1 or #2 Metolius TCU for the summit moves but you really don't need anything.

That help you out skeeter?

Posted: **Sat Sep 13, 2003 3:00 pm**

That helps out a lot, but how much gear do you think I should take with me?

I don't want to have to little gear.

I would also like to thank everyone who has posted something. Everything has been very helpful so far and looking forward to reading more good posts as they come.

p.s. Do any of you know a good trad climb for someone to start out on?

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2003 1:02 pm**

Leaves of three let them be at pistol ridge or
American crack

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2003 2:33 pm**

Calypso III is far better than American Crack for a new leader.