RRC Archives

Stirring the pot...

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... te&id=2506

To me it seems looks like EGBG really bolted very little crack and it was up high. Whilst it seems that R. Kelly Ethics looks more forced as a trad line. Not really a big fan of overlapping routes either and everyone raved about EGBG. Now we are gonna have to wait for some trad wanker spending hours on how learning how to place gear. No offense Art, this is purely academic. What do you guys think?

no such thing as a 'forced' trad line, i mean, without 'enhancements'

There is when it covers at least a third of the same territory as previously established sport line.

The sport line should have steered clear of the crack, there are plenty of holds to the left. It is a nice crack line, and indeed there is no such thing as a "forced" trad line that follows the naturally protectable line of least resistance. Fortunately, the overlapping part is 5.5 at best, so the 2 routes can reasonably coexist. EBGB is a fun route that will definitely be popular, reminiscent of Pogue Ethics at Phantasia. Still, I kind of wish people would stop and think a bit more before putting bolts next to a crack that is full protectable from start to finish.

PS. Got the rope today, thanks Ian.

I wish developers would think more clearly and bolt cracks bottom to top. There is no holy grail to placing gear in a crack or on a face. Developers need to start b eing more original and bolting cracks and leaving protectable faces for cams.

I should also of stated that I have never seen this piece of rock in person and was playing arm chair developer. Hopefully both lines can co-exist without creating confusion or frustration.

Glad you got the rope, but really credit goes to my friend that got to the chains to pull it. Good stuff at the Brightside, will be back for sure.

Yeah, just getting to the chains on that route always feels like a major victory...

This shit is fucked up.

blame Obama, Lar

pigsteak wrote:I wish developers would think more clearly and bolt cracks bottom to top.

I think I smell what you're cooking: pork, the other white meat.