RRC Archives

the most memorable routes require a 'please let me stick it this time' move towards the end. of course, these routes only stand out because they continually kick us in the - oof! - heart junk. my boot in the old heart junk was:

Jesus Wept. i spent three full days last season falling on the last lurch move to the crimp (i later sorted MUCH easier beta). i'd routinely crush the bottom, swing through the easy middle section, make it to the rest, try and employ some DIY psychotherapy, do a small line of primo Columbian Bam-Bam, and head up to the top for ... a 20 footer.

and then one day i did the move and - potentially (according to chaos theory) - stopped a galaxy from being destroyed.

the end.

Scott and I (especially Scott) fell way too many times from the last move of Dog Bites before Brad swept in for the FA. Now I have moved on to falling from the top of Evil Emperor, and am wondering how much failure I can take before giving up on this one too...

Table.

I put a lot of time into falling off the last crimp move on Wildfire as it was my first 12 after getting back into climbing. Scar Tissue foiled me for a bit, but I didn't really invest enough effort in it to call it heartbreaking. I just realized that I haven't really projected since doing Wildfire. I need to find me a heartbreaker

Tissue Tiger for sure. How many folks you see get on this climb and punt on the same move over and over again, vs people who actually send it. And I think part of it is how easy the climbing is getting up to it, people get sucked in.


Dracula, because the moment of truth is just a foot from the chains.

dustonian wrote:Scott and I (especially Scott) fell way too many times from the last move of Dog Bites before Brad swept in for the FA. Now I have moved on to falling from the top of Evil Emperor, and am wondering how much failure I can take before giving up on this one too...

Haha thought of that route immediately.

I foresee a long cold season on the shady side of the holler....

der uber wrote:Tissue Tiger for sure. How many folks you see get on this climb and punt on the same move over and over again, vs people who actually send it. And I think part of it is how easy the climbing is getting up to it, people get sucked in.

+1 I sent this route many times over in my head from my desk or on my couch, and it was just plain easy. Damn that move though when it came to reality would spit me off time and time again.

The Infidel and Mercy the Huff are others that got me pretty good. Mercy zaps all that energy out of you as you are at the final bolt "rest" where everyone else is getting some handjam or some such shit, and I was just pumped out of my mind wondering how I was going to hold on to the anchor jug if I ever got to it. Now I wonder that same thing on Cell Block Six.

Tissue Tiger?? No way--it sure does have a potent crux, but the bottom is so easy that it's hardly "heartbreaking" if you fall off at the top.

My vote goes for Table... or 8-ball.

Spank since I broke my ankle on it...