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Is Ro Shampo really a 12?
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 1:41 pm
by Joel
I'm asking because I led it, and I can't lead 5.12.
What's the consensus?
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 1:59 pm
by SCIN
Consensus on Ro is 5.11d.
Scissors 5.11c
Tic-tac-toe 5.12b
That wall is all screwed up with the ratings.
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 2:22 pm
by SikMonkey
Damn, Scissors is only .11c? What's it rated in the book?
Oh yeah, Ray, do you think Skin Flute is really a 12b?
Mj
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 2:32 pm
by SCIN
Yea, Scissors is pretty tame. The book lists it as 5.12c because the original start was a traverse. I guess the huge jugs weren't there at the time.
Skin Flute 5.12b? I'm not sure. When I did it I think it was 5.12a but since that a couple of major holds have busted off. Bberlier said he thought it may be 5.12b now as did some others who have done it since. So, I'd say chances are it is 5.12b now.
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 3:25 pm
by SikMonkey
Thanks for the info SCIN. Someone had mentioned that Scissors was easy, but I just never had gotten a chance to get on it.
Mj
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 3:45 pm
by rat-baby
If you really want to climb Scissors look for the old bolt hole below and to the left of the first bolt. Start that sucker from there, instead of on the jugs. That shit ain't easy. Also If your thinkin Ro is "12a" check out tic tac toe for what a 12a on that wall is like.
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 4:45 pm
by SikMonkey
I knew Ro wasn't a 12a. I have already been briefed on what a "consensus" 12a is by a friend of mine. Is Tic Tac Toe pretty hard? Is it pumpy or is there just a bitch ass move in the middle of it? Oh yeah, are the falls clean on Scissors and Tic Tac?
Mj
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 5:18 pm
by SCIN
Yea man, the falls are clean on both routes.
Tic-Tac-Toe is just a tough problem right before the anchors and you're kind of pumped.
Scissors is just a tough move at the beginning and then just hanging on for the duration.
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 5:55 pm
by SikMonkey
Cool. I will have to add them to my "to do" list (or at least my "project" list). Thanks for the beta.
Mj
Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2002 1:13 pm
by Johnny
Joel, if you limit your thinking to "I can't do 5.12", then you will be right. Recognize that you have good and bad days, that ratings are arbitrary at best, that you have special attributes that will match well with some routes, and poorly with others, and that climbing has a tremendous mental aspect to it. Don't worry about whether Ro is a 12, just focus on having fun while climbing it.