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Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 1:46 pm
by milspecmark
He folks. I am traveling to Boulder this August with my wife. I just wanted to see if any of you RRG Climbers have been out to Boulder and if you have any recommendations for sport climbing out there. I climb up to 5.11 (Up to 5.12 at Muir), and my wife can top rope up to 10.C. You guys really helped out alot in planning my trip to Joshua Tree. Hoping you folks can help again.

Re: Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:15 pm
by dustonian
Clear Creek Canyon near Golden or Boulder Canyon. If you have time drive to Rifle for some ass-kicking. Shelf Road down south or Table Mountain in Golden would be pretty hot.

Re: Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:23 pm
by Brentucky
Yep, get the Clear Creek Canyon and/or Boulder Canyon guidebooks. Tons of easy to find, good stuff. Also, based on my experience of two, Nederland is a cool little town with some amazing restaurants at a good price.

Re: Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 3:02 pm
by milspecmark

Re: Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 3:39 pm
by toad857
milspecmark wrote:I climb up to 5.11 (Up to 5.12 at Muir),
:lol:

Re: Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 3:47 pm
by bcombs
toad857 wrote:
milspecmark wrote:I climb up to 5.11 (Up to 5.12 at Muir),
:lol:
Does this mean you climbed a 5.12 like Immaculate Deception or Espresso or you crush Cell Block and Jesus Wept but can't muster the skills to get up a 12a in the PMRP?

Re: Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 4:03 pm
by milspecmark
I can usually do any 11 a b c or d in Muir. Any 10 a b c d outside of Muir. I did do one 12.b at Muir though. But is was Etch a scetch.

Re: Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 4:31 pm
by Brentucky
milspecmark wrote:I can usually do any 11 a b c or d in Muir. Any 10 a b c d outside of Muir. I did do one 12.b at Muir though. But is was Etch a scetch.
First off, Edge-a-sketch is not rated 12b. Secondly, the 14 feet above it should not be either. Yeah there are some easy 12a's in Muir (Beef Stick, Immaculate Deception, Stranger), but there are also some solid-ass ones (Cosmic Trigger, Freakin Deacon), just like in the rest of the Red.

Re: Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 4:39 pm
by rohr
Clear Creek Canyon is definitely worth checking out. It's very close to Denver, and not far at all from Boulder. Wall of Justice is a good spot with several routes in the grades you're looking for. There are some really steep climbs if you want to be reminded of home! Slammer is a super fun 12b that goes out a roof, then throws a couple weird moves at you after you get out of the steep part. Officer Friendly is short, steep, fun, and perhaps a bit soft at 11c, especially if you're tall. There are a few other 11s and 12s, as well as a couple 10s that were fun but not terribly memorable. The main downside of Wall of Justice is that the belay area isn't exactly flat. An extra sling to clip into the fixed ropes up there could make your life a lot easier. You pass High Wire Crag on your way to Wall of Justice. There are a bunch of climbs in the easier grades there.

Wall of the 90s is fun too. Try curvaceous if you end up there. It's mid to upper 11. See mountain project for lots of people fighting about the grade...

Clear Creek, like everywhere, gets crowded on weekends, especially on the popular walls I just mentioned. Mid-week is better. Right now the road up there is closed during the week for construction, but the closures are supposed to end soon. So you should be fine in August, but you might want to double check before you roll up that way.

There's tons of good stuff up in Boulder Canyon too, but I don't really know the area well enough to be doling out advice on where to go.

Have a good trip!

Re: Boulder, CO

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:09 pm
by nik
was in a very similar position last summer (climb 11s, TR partner, not knowing much about the boulder climbing scene). we just showed up at the REI in boulder, picked up the boulder canyon guidebook, and in like twenty minutes were traversing the river on a 10min hike to the cliff. this is all to say that it was really easy to find good climbs in boulder canyon. boulder canyon, by the way, is absurdly close to town. you just leave on the west-side of town (canyon rd, i think), and in 3-4 miles you'll start seeing little pull-offs for the climbs.

the climbing was fun, too. very different from the red. we did a classic 5.8, that i guess everyone does, and it was awesome. definitely rivals 27 years of climbing (can't remember the name, but it's the one with the most stars in the guidebook).