RRC Archives

Found this little chestnut:

"Did this in some old evolv defys that i borrowed from my buddy and I'm no slab guru. On top of that I only send 11b on a good day. No excuses! Work on your balance folks. Super fun route and nice to look at as well"

What am I supposed to take from this type of comment?
- that this climber's footwork is off the chain? Not only was he able to send with OLD shoes, but they were also his BUDDY'S shoes.
- and he was able to do so while not being a slab guru? Wow! I wonder what he is capable of when projecting something in his wheel house.
- only sends 11b on a good day? Is he saying this was over graded bc this route is obviously not his style and he did it with old, borrowed gear?
- no excuses, work on my balance? My balance does suck, but I don't appreciate my manhood being attacked because I might have difficulty with this climb.

So please, if you have the time, help one of the more intellectually challenged climbers (me) understand what this comment was meant to convey.

Thanks!!!

why being so hard on Willy? he's got happy feet cause he walked a route not usually his style in less than perfect conditions, was excited, and threw in a suggestion for those that struggled.

It means the person thinks evolve shoes are garbage. And YOU need to work on your footwork.

Oh willy,

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=871-3XMhtAk

Ha! I was going to comment on it in the route section but decided to leave it alone... I had even started typing and then deleted it. BUT, seeing this... I can't resist now

This was my take:

According to his tick list he has on-sighted the only 12a he has done. He on-sighted this route as well though the two other 11b's and one 11c he has done have taken 2 goes each. So based upon understanding his skill set I would make the following observations:

1.) The climb is either super soft for the grade or he is just stepping into his own as a slab prodigy (known as a slodigy)
2.) Evolv defys are the bomb diggity for climbing slab. You MUST own a pair if you consider yourself to be a serious slab climber.
3.) Obviously, you must have terrible footwork. This is a precursor to being able to call yourself a RRG climber.
4.) Can anyone really be having a "bad day" if they are sending an 11b. This is a paradoxical comment. Of course his day is good... he is climbing and just sent an 11b... duh!

I think it is pretty clearly a reply to Caribe's comment on the same route.

hahaha you're killin' me Lee...

One thing's for sure, he's right about Caribe needing to work on his balance... never seen him do a route without cutting his feet loose at least once. And that includes more than a few slabby offwidths...

I think it is pretty clear that one-fall and pigsteak are one and the same with such scathing remarks....

I garnered a lot of beta from the cryptic comments, but what I really wanted to take away was whether or not he was wearing jeans, and if they would help me.

jeans, flip flops, a hammock, dogs, kids, slab....pure gumby fest at its finest....